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are they Griffin?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JTV358/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Got my stands yesterday. Ready for demo carnage.

Sweet! Are those a stupid deal of the day buy?

No, I got them off Amazon. I think they were $70? Much cheaper than some of the ones on Sweetwater.

Got my stands yesterday. Ready for demo carnage.

Can't..breathe. Laughing too hard.

Jon pretty much nailed it. The Harbinger is 95% Univibe (Neovibe). The added input buffer option gives it a different flavor. Plus, it fits perfectly in a horizontal 1590BB, which is nice.

Another trick: if your PT2399 locks up, put it on the breadboard and ground all the pins. Presto, unlock. This has worked for me before.

This thread reminded me that I also have Audtion. It was bundled with my (now) ancient Adobe CS2 Production Suite. It is a good editor with some cool features.

I had the same issue with mine, so I socketed R5.  I also feel the non-delay signal is a bit bright, so I'm tinkering with that as well.

I was a little disappointed in the difference between the tone of the direct and the repeats being so different. If you figure out a fix please post it..

All the Zero Points are tweaked for filtered repeats. But, you can change this easily on the DD by removing or lowering C21. It has a big effect on the tone of the repeats. A small cap there is a good idea to keep noise down, though. Try 6n8 or 10n. Also, you can increase C22 to 220n which will give you a broader frequency range on the repeats.

As far as the clean through being too loud, reduce R3 to 470k. Looking back, this is a better choice and I should probably put a note in the project doc. Interestingly, I did not notice too much of a boost, but I also probably did not crank it much, either.

Reaper/Fruity Loops/TC Electronic Konneckt8/Tascam monitors. I'm actually waiting on delivery of some new floor stands for the monitors with some foam iso pads. I'm thinking of building a couple sound diffusers for my room, too.

Just saw this on the IK Multimedia website. If you purchase Amplitube ($99), install and register it you get a free promotion: four more Amplitube modules completely free. Apparently this promo has been going on for a while, but it ends tonight. I've used it before (and Guitar Rig) and it is pretty good sounding. Really great for doing song demo stuff if you don't want to go through mic'ing up an amp.

Anyway, the way it works is you register through the site, purchase any of the Amplitube products, download then authorize it with the software it installs (you have to do this right away before the promo runs out). After your register your product, there is a "promotions" link in the user area which lets you choose from four other Amplitube products (they've got an Ampeg, Orange, Fender, Metal, Slash and Hendrix modules in addition to Amplitube 3).

Obviously, I'm not shilling for IK Multimedia. But, if you've ever thought about getting into this stuff with your DAW you probably won't get a better deal. It's several hundreds of dollars of software for $99.

http://www.ikmultimedia.com/atgb/

I'm describing it the wrong way. It blocks DC and passes AC. IOW, it keeps the DC in the circuit to prevent it from leaking out into our guitar/amp, etc. I was thinking about it the right way (buttoning up the DC) but I was wrong saying it stops AC.

I'll fix that up in the doc so it's more clear.

Nope, that's exactly what the coupling does. Removes the AC component and leaves us with DC, which is what our circuit operates on.

2014 versions of these three are available in the store. The documentation has been uploaded for each as well. The Slow Loris doc has some circuit analysis in it too, since that was a general request a while back.

Also, EHX has that one and it is pretty cheap. I've seen them for around $80 used.

http://www.ehx.com/products/8-step-program

Ahh my bad, somehow I read you were using a Dirtbag in there. Sorry I did not read more carefully.

The answer is I don't know, then. In principle, I think it would. However, one question I would consider is whether or not pin7 will still put out the correct Vgg voltage. I haven't looked at the datasheet in a while but if it just uses a pair of resistors then it should. If not, you may have to use a set of resistors or a trimpot off the supply to achieve the 14/15 supply. I really don't know.

Worst case scenario is set up a test condition and check out what happens when you flip the polarity on the chip. That way you only risk burning up one.