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It's normal to not hear the signal at the inverting input of IC1A, but you should have something at the output (pin1). If there's no output there, you need to investigate. Take some voltage readings on the IC, check your soldering on the IC pins.

Does it stop no matter what the adjustment is, or only at full clockwise or counter-clockwise?

Awesome, dude! You will enjoy that. Don't let the mid-life crisis get to you too much!

Yikes, that is an error for sure. I can send you a new board today. Fortunately, I kept one on hand while the new batch is getting manufactured. Sorry that it caused you trouble

bram2000, PM where you want me to ship it and it will be out this afternoon.

Try lowering or removing R37, Jon. See if that fixes the output on pins 10/11.

Arduino and my little LCD panel have arrived. I'm putting together a little proto board for it. Haven't had a chance to do anything with it yet.

I also ordered a PICKIT2 a few days ago. Might as well go all the way. The PICAXE also looks interesting. Pic programming in BASIC....plenty dumb enough for me.

I'd stick to similar low forward voltage diodes. Maybe try some BAT41 or BAT46. Possibly the 1n914 although those are higher Vf.

Anyway, it's simple. Just do the diodes on a bit of perf or vero. You only need to use an On/On SPDT switch. Here's a simple diagram. D1 and D2 and the germanium. D3 and D4 are your new diodes. The diodes are all connected together at the bottom, which is the part that gets wired back to the ground pad on the PCB. At the top, you have D1/D2 back to back, and one wire that connects to the outside lug of the switch. Same thing with D3/D4, which are connected to the other outside lug. Then the middle lug is wired back to the PCb to the D1 square pad.

Yeah, I feel ready to start stepping into the world of micro-controllers, too. Man, I wish I had known about this stuff when I was in college. It's hard to start from knowing almost nothing (again), haha.

Yeah, I think the Aquaboy 2012 is the way to go since you can just etch a board and populate without guesswork. You can always use a smaller Delay pot if you want to limit it to slapback and mess with the timing cap as Scruffie mentioned.

If you feel like experimenting, you can look up the schems for other delays and check out the filtering they use. The AD-999 and DOD FX-90 are pretty similar in the way the do the Sallen Key filters, but the values are different. Let me know if you need guidance.

Finally got around to ordering an Uno rev.3 board. Should be fun for some DIY projects. Anyone else playing with one?

For the charge pump, you can use the TC1044SCPA, ICL7660SCPA or MAX1044CPA.

For the diodes, you can use either 1N4001 or a 11v Zener for D3, and I suggest 1N5817 for D1 and D2. The regulator should be LM7815. You could probably get away with a LM78L15 if that's all you had. The difference is in current output with the LM78L15 being about 100mA max and the 7815 being about 1A. The Road Rage is designed for the latter, but both will work.

As well as looking into those mosfets, an incorrect resistor value in the feedback loop could cause the squealing (ie too much gain).

Verify that you have used 2k2 for R4, 39k for R8 and 150k for R9. If you aren't sure, post a pic of the PCB and I can read the color codes for you (or you can just look them up online).

I'll have more with the batch coming this month. I don't have an exact date for that yet, but I will have an approximate date within a day or so.

Stuck the resistors on during the build, so just stuck a LED in as we've got loads. No reason to really. Never planned to have the blinking LED as the Optotron doesn't support it.

That's good to read, wondered if you'd found that the LED somehow subtly affected the LFO in a beneficial fashion

You know, I've been 'scoping LFOs this week and I've found that adding an LED to the output on some can affect the waveform a bit. I haven't tried it on the Stage Fright, though. Just an interesting find.

No, just leave it off.