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It's for R15 (100R) and R16 (10k) at the outputs.

Sure, a wrong adaptor could do it. It can take up to 14v DC, though. Just check your voltages to make sure they are stable.

Drained battery
Wiring broken
Faulty parts

- that's the list for commercial pedals

For a DIY pedal it's those three above plus about 1000000 other potential reasons.

You should be able to scrape some of the lead width off with an Xacto knife, too.

Yeah, I would not worry about C19 draining in that case. If it were doing that with the charge pump installed then that would be a problem. But, we don;'t want to put that original charge pump back in now since it could be faulty.

How about your regulator...what are you using there? Also, is it still wired up in the enclosure, or have you removed it (just wondering if you've eliminated wiring issues as a problem source).

Do you have any other charge pumps on hand? I think your original is toast.

It sounds like a short between power and ground. What about without the charge pump installed? What voltages are you getting on the IC socket?

P stands for Power Ground, I'm pretty sure. Most likely it is connected to the ground pin through a very small resistor (~10R) like the digital/analog grounds on the PT2399s.

In the schem above, "common" is referring to the bias voltage which is not shown. Luckily in the vast majority of pedal schematics the terminology is consistent: power, ground and bias. Power is the supply, ground is common (or earth if you like) and bias is some percentage/division of the supply. In some circuits, ground and bias are the same thing (when you have a split rail supply). This may not be the most technically correct way to label things (at least not to a real engineer) but it works well enough for us.

Occasionally you will see an actual distinction between ground and earth---usually when there is a connection between ground and chassis of some type (resistor, large cap, etc).

Are you using the double delay board from the Aquaboy 2012 docs? I just looked at these again and noticed there is a mistake on the board. R1 and R2 are 100k pulldown resistors for each output of the BBD. But, it looks like I have both attached to pin3, rather than one to pin3 and one to pin4.

If you are using that double delay board, move either R1 or R2 so it connects with pin4. I will also correct the mistake ASAP on the doc.

I'm not sure that is what is causing the gating. But, I also have not tried the double delay board on the ABDX. The clock is meant to drive two BBDs, and it may just not be suited for three or four without adding a second clock or some kind of clock buffer. I just can't speak too intelligently about it not having tried this myself.

Try audio probing around the switch/IC4 area to see if you have output. That would tell you if it is the switch.

That shield is hot!

Are you testing the wiring outside of the enclosure? If so, you need to temporarily attach a ground wire to the sleeve of the output jack. This is not needed when everything is wired inside an enclosure, because the output sleeve is grounded via the enclosure itself.

To make it more palatable for bass, you could try the following:
C1 = 470n
C5  = 220n
C4 = 10n

There's nothing wrong with using a higher value for R33. This is a mixing resistor only. If 130k works for you, then you are good to go. Are you running it a 15v? That may explain higher volume to some degree vs. the DM-2.

With the feedback: yes, shorter delay times will oscillate sooner than longer ones. Nature of the beast for a positive feedback cycle like this. Same as above, use whatever value resistor works for you. It is a mixing resistor. The cap preceding it is 220n which will pass pretty much the whole guitar frequency range.

You can use an audio taper on the delay pot if it suits you. It will work, although I have never tried this myself.

Use this as a reference for wiring positive ground with battery only. Same exact hookup.

[Try a higher value resistor for R55 and/or R27. It may help.]

What can i do best:
-lower the input to the bbd's to get an even cleaner delay. How?
Try a higher value resistor for R55 and/or R27. It may help.
-change the value of r38
Increase the value of R38 to move unity gain closer to the 12ock position.
-change the mixpot to 50k log or to 100k?
Changing it to 50kA will shift the unity position as well. Using 100k might actually make the problem worse.

Next question:
With a double delay board it works with 3 mn3005s.
I have used the double delay board for the original aquayboy wih the values for that.
When biased right the delay is very loud and has oscillation very early in the feedback pot.
The last thing makes sence as the delay is loud. What to adjust here?
Increase R39 to move the oscillation point on the Feedback pot, or use a higher value pot for the T1 trimmer.

Thanks.

.625" H

http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/72/2-46-180364.pdf