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Well, whatever English you speak I'm just glad my friggin' taxes got done and sent in time. Another one right under the wire.

What kind of LED are you using? Is it a water/clear/high brightness type?

If so, try using a plain red diffused (that's what I used).

The LED indicator will not have a terribly strong pulse at slower speeds, but does at high speeds. It's a compromise to make a simple solution for an indicator. If it isn't working for you I'd say leave it off. Or, another possibility is to create a separate circuit that drives the LED (using a transistor). I didn't explore this because of the space limitation on the PCB, but maybe there is something I can come up with as an alternative.

Lastly, you can try running another 4k7 in parallel with the LED (anode to ground). This may pull the LED pulse into a better on/off ramp, but it might have a negative effect on the vibe overall.

Hmm. Next I would try removing some ICs and see if the motorboating goes away.

First remove the two PT2399s and listen to the dry signal. If you still have motorboating, removeIc5 (the modulation one).

This will help narrow down the area that is causing the problem.

You can also audio probe to see where the noise is coming from. Listen to pin1 on IC1A, pins 16 and 15 on both the PT2399s (with the ICs inserted back in).

Voltages look good. Is the motorboating in all delay settings? What about if you turn the Mix knob all the way down?

This one is a bit confusing as there is onboard filtering and separate filtering as well on the breakout pcb. Not sure if we need one or both systems and if using both would cause problems, etc.

This is explained on page 6 of the doc with the Power Options chart.

9v DC Wall Wart (One Spot, etc.)   Populate the filter PCB and connect it to the 9v/G pads on the main PCB. Omit C22, D1.
9v DC Regulated (VoodooLabs, etc.)   Do not populate the filter board. Connect DC jack to the 9v/G pads on the main PCB. Use IC1, C22, D1, D2, D3, C19 and C20.
18v DC Wall Wart (Dunlop, etc)   Populate the filter PCB and connect it to the 18v/G pads on the main PCB. Omit IC1, C22, D1, D2, D3, C19 and C20.
18v DC Regulated (Voodoolabs, etc).   Do not populate the filter PCB. Connect the DC jack to the 18v/G pads on the main PCB. Omit IC1, C22, D1, D2, D3 and C19, but use C20.


I probably should have mentioned the 100n cap, but as Jon said: there's no harm in using it in all cases. It's probably most beneficial with wallwarts, but it doesn't hurt, either.

If you are excluding the LED clipping, you need to jumper the middle and right pads on the CLIP switch. This will connect the mosfet clippers to Vb.

Looking at the layout image in the build doc, it's the two pads with RED (top traces) connected to them.

The square wave modulation is going to be pretty wild. The triangle wave is smooth.

For footswitch wiring, the standard diagram is what I use: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/tutorials/downloads/StandardWiring_MBP.pdf

Let me know if you need any more help.

My god, I hate it.

My OSH Park prototyping total for 2012: $1234.35

At least I cut down a little from 2011!

You need to remove D3. D3 is ONLY to be used for the MN3101/v3205 combination.

From the doc: NOTE: if you are using the MN3101 with the v3205, you must use D3 to approximate the correct Vgg voltage for pin8 of the clock (14/15 of Vdd). In all other cases (including when using an MN3102, BL3102 or v3102) you should omit D3.

Okay, this is what I forgot to put in the docs. The higher supply means the voltage output on the LFO is greater, and therefore the Led it drives is brighter. When that happens, the delay pot gets pulled too far because the total resistance between the photocell and depth pot is too low when it swings to full brightness and the depth is at max. That's why higher values for the two led resistors should be used. I'll add this info to the docs.
I double checked on my v3205/9v build and the 1k there works fine. 6k8 to 10k is better for the 15v supplies.

Dan- are you sure that you have R3 and R2 correct? It has quite a bit of gain on tap and it should not be subtle.

Thank you madbean. I didn't mean to sound rude btw, I really appreciate what you've done here. I just don't particularly want the diode options in this pedal. I'll probably keep the gain pot the way you have it in the kingslayer.

No worries, didn't think that. By all means, you should make it into what you want it to be!

Scott- the terminals are actually consistent. The "1" on the PCB indicates lug1 of the Vol knob just above. I'm sorry for the confusion. On the more recent layouts, I've made pin1 on switches a square pad so it is more clear.

I also agree about the supply zener. I plugged in the wrong adaptor on my own build a few months ago and screwed it up. If I ever re-do the PCB, it's something I will include.

I don,t know how practical it is but you don't need to use that kind of switch. You only need to switch the 'hot' supply, not ground. So, an on/on spdt with 9v on one lug and 18v on the other is what you should use. You can have one switch for both or one for each.