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You will also need to change R9. On the Klon, it's a 2k b/w R10 and lug 3 of the Gain pot. On the Kingslayer the value is actually 10k and it's between the wiper and ground.

Hi Albertcarrera,

Clock noise (whine) at max delay means you need to dial back your Clock trim. Set your delay pot fully clockwise. Turn the Clock trim counter-clockwise until the whine not audible. This will change your maximum delay amount so if you want a bit more delay, you may have to accept a little noise with it.

I checked. I used 1k for both. I think I will add a note to the documentation to socket these values. Are you running it a 15v or 9v for your MN3005?

1 yes
2 no, the charge pump supplies the same voltage

It's in the zip file: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/Serendipity/docs

This should be the 2.1mm DC jack: 163-4302-E

Is it an etched layout? If so, it's the same layout as in the current documentation.

Only somewhat behind here. The FatPants 2013 doc: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/FatPants/docs/Fatpants2013.pdf

"B" means linear 

If you are going to connect the filter network around R14 to ground it is probably not going to sound very good. You will need to play with those values quite a bit, esp. if you are skipping the tone-stack altogether. Otherwise it will be pretty dark sounding.

Additionally, you don't need to double up on input buffers. IC1B is not necessary---just take your clean signal from the output of IC1A then send that to your blend pot.

Lastly, nothing around IC2A makes sense to me. You should probably eliminate everything between R3 and C6.

Really, it seems like it would be much easier to split the dual gang pot in the existing design into two single pots and see if you like it that way.

On my proto I used a One Spot and did not have any significant noise without the filter PCB. However, other 9v wall warts may not be so lucky. It seemed easier for the documentation just to make generalized suggestions because there is no real downside to using it. IOW, you can use the filter PCB for any non-regulated wall-wart, but it may also not be necessary for every wall-wart.

Also, if you want to use it, you can sub in smaller values for the caps. 220uF is adequate.

Some suggestions:

1) Try putting a cap in parallel with the gain pot (lugs 1 and 3). Try 100pF - 470pF.
or, 2) If you have unity at 10 ock, then you could swap the pot for a lower value, say 10k.

1) is probably the easiest (and better) solution.

Feeling better...at least well enough to get orders shipped. No calling in sick when you are the only d00d to do it, ha ha.

R56 is basically a kludge I added since there was room on the board. If you are using the VTL5C3 you really should not need it, and I think I was not clear about that in the build doc. My intent in putting it there was to offer some tweaking for random photocells, where light/dark resistances are way out of spec from the vactrol.

However, I'll need to check about the two resistor values. It may be that I put different values in my prototype and forgot when I did the final type-up. I'll check my proto tomorrow morning and report back. I've also been working on a second build (on a production board) as time allows so that will give me something else to compare.

Ideally, I want to get the two builds demoed so I can show everyone a comparison of the v3205 vs. the MN3005.

Maybe not. I ended up with food poisoning so I don't think I will be doing anything today. Barf.