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Here's what I would do: tackle it from the LED brightness side. Socket R50 and R51 and increase their values, but keep them the same value. Start with 4k7 and see how that works. Making them the same value ensures that the LED swings full bright and dark, and the increased resistance will dim the LED a bit which should prevent the max depth from causing a problem.

I agree with you, it is possible.. and R7 is definitely right resistor.
But as I sad before you are not getting just volume adjustment, also there is change in lower frequency's..

Hi brejna, try socketing R8 and then reduce to 5k1 or lower. That will bump up higher frequencies which may reduce the perception of bass somewhat.

Can you tell me more about the MN3005? What voltage were you powering it at? Getting signal into pin7 of BBD1 but not out? How do your voltages look on the MN3005 when the PCB is powered up? Do you have any others that you know to be good that you can use as a reference...even MN3008?

What kind of power supply are you using? That is a possible culprit. How much hiss are experiencing versus signal level (approximately, I mean).

This never fails to make my heart race a bit....

Kai, first off: I got you email and let me apologize for not getting back to you in a timely manner. I have no good excuse other than it got away from me But, I am glad to see you here on the forum!

Next, as Scruffie said: let's have your voltages on at least the MN3007 to start. Also, please confirm that your jumpers are set according to the build doc (which I'm sure you have done anyway) and that specifically you have done the following:

MN3007 – Omit D4, D5 and C5. Connect the square and round pins of C5 together via a jumper. This does two things: connects pin1 of the MN3007 to VC via a 100R series resistor for (nearly) full voltage operation and connects the VGG pin of the chip to ground. Note that while the Current Lover is intended for 9v operation, you can safely operate it up to 15vDC provided it is well regulated. If you change to a larger supply after biasing it for 9v, you will most likely have to re-bias the effect for the larger supply voltage.

Also, have you tried any other value for C18?

We'll have probably a few hours of downtime coming...most likely on Sunday. The site/forum will be moved to the new host during this period. I don't have an exact time/duration but it will most likely happen Sunday at some point.

There have been a few short periods of slow performance/loading/downtime issues over the past few months which will no longer be the case after the move.

You know, when I placed my order, I didn't realize that the Madbean guitar picks were cryogenically treated.

You really need to advertise that more, Brian.   

I'm thinking we should collectively publish an article of "BS marketing techniques" used for guitars and electronics...

Ordered and errm, ordered

It's cheaper for us international types to do separate <$50 orders and have them shipped via 'flats'.

Yeah...I hope this is working okay for international people. It seemed to be the best compromise to keep shipping prices as low as I can. But, if it becomes a source of frustration, people need to let me know. A 2oz flat cost 2.90 to ship most places overseas which I think is very reasonable. Most orders come out to 2oz using the 7x10" envelopes, which themselves weigh 0.5oz. I really hate these new USPS prices.

Sparkplug rev1 doc is up: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/Sparkplug/Sparkplug_rev1.pdf

Barber pedals are really good, I've had two of them in use for years. Also I like my Sparkplug V1. So I'd be curious to know what Mr. Barber himself thinks about the Sparkplug.

Ha ha. He might think "wanker"....or maybe not. I had a Super Sport for a while. Got it as a "second" even though it was pretty flawless. Really wish I had kept it.

I'll get a demo done of rev.1 up ASAP. I've got it boxed and ready to go. Today will be a pretty busy one already though.

This was added to the ABDX build doc in light of this thread: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=9187.0

04.05 Update: R58 was added for a bit of extra PS filtering with C37 and C43, however, has caused some problems with heat/burned resistor with builders. The value and/or wattage on this resistor should have been made higher to prevent this and was a poor choice on my part. It is recommended that you leave off R58 and put a jumper in its place. Alternatively, you can put in a 1W 1N5817 diode for polarity protection (you can leave off D1 in that case, if you like). 

R58 was something I saw as "missing" as I was finalizing the design on the PCB, and I added it without thinking it all the way through. It won't damage any other components AFAIK...just fry your resistor. Higher value/wattage resistor will prevent this, but really it's not necessary to have. Sorry about the mistake!

[Go ahead and remove R58 and jumper it.]

It's okay to switch between the two different BBDs on the ABDX as long as the jumpers are set. Go ahead and remove R58 and jumper it. What's happening is that the it's shooting out current and losing it through heat. A larger value resistor or higher wattage would probably be okay but will also increase the voltage drop on the supply. It should be fine without it. I'll add a note in the build doc. It won't damage anything like your BBDs...just toasted the resistor.

Sorry, that was a poor design choice. You could also replace it with a 1N5817 for extra polarity protection, but jumpering it is fine.


Update: added to build doc and a note made in the Errata section: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=9190.0

There were. 

Also, I think I said before I was open to doing one more run of PepperSprays if there is enough interest (at or near today's sale price). The other projects are definitely discontinued but there does seem to be some interest the PS.

Sparkplug rev1 doc is up: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/Sparkplug/Sparkplug_rev1.pdf

There were.