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It'll be a couple more days. A bit overdue on the shipment form the manufacturer

Here's a closeup to the trace layout for the daughter board. I'd check to make sure there is no error with the traces on the PCB, just in case. They could be connected on the main board too, maybe through a solder bridge somewhere.

I can start the sale once I get shipping notification of the new batch of PCBs (I want the sale to coincide with the new releases/restocks). It won't be more than three days between shipping and them arriving at my doorstep.

I have decent supply of EgoDrivers, Pppersprays and Snarkdoodles, so I don't expect to suddenly sell out before the sale. They will probably go pretty quick once the sale starts, though.

If you remove IC4 altogether, and select the Deep or Shimmer modes does the whine go away?

And, not to belabor the point: are you positive R31, R32, R33, R36 are the correct values? Any of those could cause oscillation if they are off by an order of magnitude...perhaps.

Yes, the MAX one can only supply around 20mA...maybe up to 40mA at the most. It's probably not going to be enough to work for the Harbinger. The only design I've seen use the MAX1044 for a Univibe is the Mojovibe. But, that one has a few design differences and tricks to make it work.

I might reconsider the Pepper Spray if there is enough continued interest. I will still put them on sale though, as promised.

The sale will start in a few days when the new batch of boards gets here. I'm still waiting on shipping notification from the manufacturer.

Here's a little more to whet your whistle. Pickdropper just sent me this pic of my Harbinger artwork, etch up and ready to rock. This was a result of the little benefit we did last year...I won his laser engrave auction!

What else can I say? I've been wanting a simple small looper like this for a long long time.

Yeah, sub in one of those fake Smallbear ones for the first BBD and see if you can get some output. The fakes are MN3008 which will work fine for testing here.

Stage Fright doc is up: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/StageFright/StageFright.pdf

Great project as usual!
Do you think this forumvibe mod would work? (C6=C7, C8=C10, C11=C14, C14=C17)
Could it be useful?
http://classicamplification.net/forumvibe/fv_rh_06.htm

Absolutely. But, you will need to figure out where to put the extra switch!

Sounds like ground it okay. Where did you get the MN3005? Are you sure they are good chips? Have you ever used them before?

Are you talking about a mono-in, dual mono out kind of thing? You could always take the signal off the "A" part of SW1A and run a second output using whatever method you like. Duplicate the output stage that's there, or do something with a BJT.

Actually, no. Or rather, not necessarily. I have seen it listed both ways. Even on the Univox schem it is listed as 47k. But, I have also seen people put 4k7 there. If there is a consensus that the 47k is incorrect, then please let me know and I will make a note of that in the doc.

However, you bring up a good point because it is another way to address "brightening" the lamp. I mention in the doc that I found that running the Harbinger at 9v with the charge pump seemed to result in a somewhat less intense lamp, and to socket Q13 and sub a Darlington if you want. The alternative here would be to reduce R46 to 4k7...I believe it would have more or less the same effect (something I have not experimented with, honestly).

You should be reading 0v on pin5 of the two BBDs. When you set the jumpers, it connects both of those pins directly to the ground trace.

You can run the ABDX on 9v no problem, and considering you have signal up to the input of the first BBD...well, something is just not right there.

I would spot check some other ground points on the PCB, including the GND pad itself to take some voltage readings. If you are not reading 0v in any spot, then it is a wiring issue. If you read 0v in some spots and not others, then we might need some pics.