Messages

Yes. I'm making a couple of changes to the Weener to reflect the feedback from some of the builds here. The Peak and Filter trimmers have been removed and there will be a spot to use a rotary switch for three different filter caps instead. Also, there will be a gain trimmer on the input transistor. It's pretty near the same size/dimensions...just a few parts shifted around.

The BL3208 will likely be around for a long time since EHX uses them. So, there is at least an alternative.

I think I accidentally deleted it from the Projects Page, but it is still definitely happening. My hope is to wrap up that and the Mood Ring reverb for next month but no promises as of now.

Here's the list of stuff that I am having made. I am placing this order probably tomorrow, so the boards will arrive right at the end of the month.

Re-stock:
Cupcake, Green Bean, Nautilus, Retrograde, Wolfshirt, ZPSDX

New/Revised
Stage Fright, Harbinger One, Sparkplug Rev.1, FatPants2013

I am really happy to be done with the Stage Fright and Harbinger. Both of these went through a LOT of prototyping and revisions.

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The Dirtbag 2013 is moving to April. Also, I will be doing a small revision on the Weener Wah for April. I don't know anything else beyond that at this point in terms of other projects.

Smallbear has some tiny pin mounted On/On SPDT's. I just got a few. However, they may not work well in all situations. If you are using 16mm PCB mounted pots they might be too small.

I have gotten my hands on similar DPDTs but I don't remember where, unfortunately.

Thanks, I'm not going to bother since I will be switching the website over tomorrow. No point in investing time in it now when it will probably resolve itself tomorrow.

Here's almost two dozen pieces of reference you can use: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/48621139/Fulldrive.zip

I don't have any other schem showing showing the mosfet part. The mosfet part was put in by me based on how I know it's supposed to work and from the gutshot I saw. Maybe someone else has drawn up or traced another FD2 by now, but perhaps not. Sorry I can;t be of more help with that.

Ian,

I don't know if it will make it sound exactly like the sparkle blue, but it will have all the same values, so it's a good guess that it will be very close. The Deadringer did not come directly from any one traced pedal but was put together from a consensus of existing schematics. There have not only been a few versions of the FD-2 over the years but small tweaks to values, as well. So, the DR is what I saw as the best approximation. I don't know enough about every version of the FD2 to say definitively that is a red 10th anniv or blue sparkle, etc. But, making the changes I suggested in the previous post should get you 99% there to the blue sparkle pic you posted. I guess it depends on how far you want to go with making an exact clone (using the same component types, brands, etc).

I was working on an overdrive build today and had some terrible hum with it. I spent about 5 minutes checking over all my wires, testing rig and solder joints. Turns out it was the space heater I had on in the workshop. Turned it off, no hum. You just never know!

The BC550 is just a current mirror, so gain is not a factor. You should be able to use any BJT. The pinout for the MPSA18 will be 180 degrees around.

Yeah, I have not been able to resolve the email issue yet. I'm pretty miffed by it.

Also, there will be some additional down time on Friday night. I will be locking the forum in the evening to export the database to get ready for the move to the new host. I don't expect that the whole process will take more than a few hours.

You are right about that 100n - 47n change (C6 on the Deadringer). I prefer 100n there (also in a TS) but you can certainly change it to 47n. It will move the clipping frequency to be centered around 720Hz rather than 338Hz.

The two diodes in series was mentioned in this thread already - you can put two of either 1N4005 in series to get the same results (plus switch the other diode from 1n914 to 1N4005).

The one band resistor is 0 Ohm - it's just a jumper for the PCB.

The two diodes at the top are polarity protection - probably a 1N5817 in series with the 9v supply and then a 1N4001 right after that to ground. It's a bit more robust way of ensuring that reverse polarity will not damage any components. It does not have anything to do with the actual tone, though.

The transistors on the right are for the LED, I'm almost positive. They are probably some kind of 'millenium bypass' type set-up. He may have chosen that to ensure a more silent switching on the 3PDT. He did the same thing on the OCD, IIRC.

You can use tantalums for the tone section, of course. How much difference that makes over film I cannot say. Maybe some to one set of ears and none to another set. In any case, just make sure you put the negative side toward ground if you use tants.

That would have been the last on my guess list, but at least you got it going finally!

That's more or less normal behavior. The dwell pot is pretty sensitive after the halfway mark. You can change this pretty easily, though. Either increase R12 to 1M or the Dwell pot to 100k or 250k. I'd probably go with increasing R12.