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Did you try it with a non daisy chained supply just to see if the ticking went away? Current draw should not be to aggressive on it. Hmm. Maybe lowering the voltage divider resistors would help by increasing the current to the bias supply...like 10k instead of 150k on both. Or swapping it for a lower current draw IC like the TL062.

The one thing I wish he could do beyond this is put links to datasheets for some of the stuff he carries. A big task, but it would be extremely convenient.

Check it: http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/StoreFront

Part2 is now online!

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/builds/reports/zpsdx/p2.html

Mother of god that is awesome, Dave! Really, that is one of the sweetest looking builds I've seen in a long time. It's unique, the labeling method is clever and the dressing is top notch.

Kudos! You are a master! Actually, you are now an official "DIY Master Builder" which I just made up!

I'm gonna snap a pic of my on-boxed stuff today. It is shameful.

Part One of the build guide has been uploaded. Part Two will come along within a day or two.

The build guide is linked from the "Builds" page, but here is a direct link: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/builds/reports/zpsdx/index.html

Hey no problem! It could happen to anyone. Hopefully that will fix the issue.

One aside: I actually never read resistor codes myself up until about 2 years ago. Increasingly, I found it to require more work in the end NOT to read them, so I spent a few days forcing myself. Now, I can be very lazy and not have to pull out others to compare the colors or use a DMM.

Okay,

You've counted the pins backwards on IC2. Pin1 1 is top left next to the u-shaped indent, whereas you've counted pin1 from the top right. IOW, 9v goes to pin4 and ground to pin11, not the other way around. But, that's not a big deal. You have the IC in the right way which is what counts.

Second, you've used 220k instead of 22k in every spot on the PCB. You need to change those to 22k

For carbon film it should be red/red/orange, not red/red/yellow.

It happens to everyone at all levels. I expect at least half my ideas/builds not to work. The only time that it should be discouraging is when you don't know what to do about it. This is just a matter of practice. Learning to read schematics, even if you don't fully understand how everything works, and using that knowledge to identify potential problem areas will go a long way toward quick and easy debugging.

The most fundamental thing to look for in reading schematics is identifying the path the guitar signal takes from input to output. Each stage of that progression usually involves some kind of transformation, either through a transistor, an op-amp or a filter. And each of those transformations has an input and an output. So, if you are looking to find out why your signal isn't getting through, it is simply a matter of knowing where those individual transformations occur, where the signal comes in and where it is supposed to leave. Then you use the audio probe to trace those inputs and outputs along a linear path from effect input to effect output.

Here's a simple example using the input stage of the Mudbunny. Red dots are all the points you should have some audio. Yellow checks are places you should have DC voltage. Green arrows indicate the signal flow. As you can see, with just a few parts there are already nine places where something could go wrong. Maybe your input cap is bad or has a solder bridge. So, the signal never gets through C1. Or, perhaps your supply voltage is off so you are reading 2v at the top of R6 instead of 9v. Then your transistor is not functioning properly and the signal never gets to C3.

Obviously, you don't want to have to check all these points right at the outset. So, what you do is identify the input and output of this "transformation" and stick your audio probe to find out where your signal is. In this case, the base of the transistor is the input and the collector is the output. If you have signal through both, then move to the next transformation. If you have signal in, but not out, then you need to start checking these components in this area: are they soldered correctly, do the correct components get the voltage they need, could the transistor be the wrong type, or backwards, etc.

Once you start practicing this kind of thing, it becomes much, much easier to debug your builds. Even if you don't understand exactly how it is supposed to work, you can at least get a handle of where the signal comes from and where is it supposed to go.

Can we have a pic of the top and bottom of the PCB and your voltage readings on the ICs?

No, you can use electrolytic there without effecting the audio portion.

This topic has been moved to Tech Help.

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=8278.0

There is no mistake on the layout. Power and ground go to the correct pins, which are 9v to pin4 and ground to pin11. When you switched those, you were applying the power incorrectly which is why it did not work and the IC got hot. An IC getting hot is almost always an indication of reversed power rails.

You should switch the power to the correct pin and use a new TL074. The other one may be fried.

Yeah, that's a good description...it's more of an upper octave sound than an octavia. Really, it is texture and color and works best dialed in with the lower octaves.

I should probably just change the description in the build doc because I believe it leads people to expect something that this design just does not do.