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Two things I would test with the hiss.

1) Try powering it by battery temporarily. Does it go away?
2) Replace IC1 with something else, like a TL074 or maybe LM347.

Yup, that's the one.

You may need to print up the info on the USPS website cause they do not say a padded envelope automatically makes it is a package. In that case, use a cardboard mailer like a CD thing maybe.

Here is the alternate audio which I recorded separately with the Zoom hand=held.

[soundcloud]https://soundcloud.com/madbeanpedals/stagefright[/soundcloud]
[soundcloud]https://soundcloud.com/madbeanpedals/zeropointmicro[/soundcloud]
[soundcloud]https://soundcloud.com/madbeanpedals/zeropointdd[/soundcloud]

You do not have to use MLCC. Tantalum would be okay, BUT here's what I would do: use you DMM and measure the voltage on pins 2 and 1. They will probably be about the same, but if one is higher stick the positive end of the tant on that one. If looking straight down at the PCB, the top part of the cap is connected to pin2 and the bottom part is connected to pin1.

Or, use a 1uF non-polar electrolytic.

Or, if you have two 2u2 electrolytic caps, wire them in series with the negative OR positive leads soldered together to make about a 1uF non-polar cap.

I will have a demo ASAP. And a full pictorial build, too.

The original Klon used the Panasonic ECQ-B caps. You can still find some of these at smallbear but they may not have all values. That series was replaced with the ECQ-V. Those are more widely available.

But, really, any decent film cap will work, so long as they are 5mm spaced on the leads.

The Sunking is the Klon, so if that is what you are after then I would go with that. The Kingslayer is very Klon-like but with some extra bells and whistles. Both are good sounding overdrives.

Film cap should be fine. Try pulling out IC5. Is the click still there?

Unfortunately, the ZPSDX is almost gone already. I greatly under-anticipated the demand. I will be getting more, obviously, but the manufacturer is closing for two weeks starting tomorrow. This means the re-stock will likely come in early March. Sorry guys

Yeah, the location of the regulator and those caps is not ideal, but pretty much where they had to go. On mine, the regulator sticks up just about 1mm or so above the lid, but it squashes down with the lid. I put a bit of thin foam under the PCB so that the solder joints cannot contact the jacks in any way.

Probably the best choice for the two filtering caps is 10uF tantalum which could then be angles inward a bit. If you are like me, you never have them around when you need them.

I've had a few other builds where I've had to cut the lip down on the lids due to parts sticking up. You can actually use an exacto knife to do this. The metal is quite soft.

When you turn the contour you should get an increase in the lower frequencies and it should be very audible. Any possibility you have stray continuity between the wiper and lug3? This would cause it to stay fixed and not work properly.