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Correct. Although, the only thing that matters is you connect that end of D4 to that junction of D5 and C6...doesn't matter how.

I always rock before boxing. That's just how I roll.

I will be offering it as a regular project very soon. I've got a lot of PCBs to re-stock, but this one is on the list for a Feb. 1 general release. I've updated the Projects Page with what I think will be the release schedule over the next month.

Yeah it got cut off when I pasted the BOM in the doc. Fixed...thanks for the heads up.

These are all pretty good ideas.

I've had a go at the Wah Probe a couple of times and have not successfully made it work

I think the Diamond compressor might have been traced on FSB. Not sure if anyone ever did a layout for it. I have part of a layout for the Pigtronix Philosopher whatever, but haven't finished it.

I actually have a layout for the Mesmerizer, but I have not built it, so it is not verified. There was a layout for it on FSB at one time.

GGG has the Maestro Ring Modulator. I will be doing the EHX ring mod (the old one).

I have a layout for the Gristle but never built it. I just dropped it because Taylor at musicpcb released a PCB for it.

For an envelope controlled wah, well I just put the Autobahn up in the extra projects section. That's exactly what you are describing.

For the dual delay, I'd say things are looking promising for doing tap tempo ANALOG delay soon. Molten Voltage is doing an clock IC for that right now. I've already been in touch with them, so you can bet that is something I will follow through on.

That's neat!

I've got some of those "DTC" marked ones and of the few I've tested they were fine. Lower noise floor than some of my others from Tayda. Considering the cheap prices you can get through Tayda and eBay it just makes sense to get a bunch of them and sort out the bad ones. I cannot see paying $4 for a PT2399. However, Steve most likely gets his through a broker which probably gets them directly from the manufacturer...so I doubt he ends up with any fakes, clones, etc.

It seems likely that the DC jack is wired incorrectly. The pic is blurry so I cannot really tell. Can you take a closer shot?

Are you getting a proper 9v to the PCB?

GD, I am addicted to this Meatboy game. I figured out how to hook up a PS3 controller to the PC and now I am obsessed. Good thing the store is closed...

Assuming you do have matched transistors and everything is working properly, you may just be looking for a deeper phase sound like the Phase 90. The Smoothie is pretty rich but it is not necessarily "intense". I would check out some Phase 45 videos on youTube and compare your results.

Thanks Brian, I did find a video here in the forum with the same results, I think you're right a phase 90 maybe what I'm after, don't know where I can an get a pcb for that do you? 

I'm pretty sure Tonepad still carries one. Probably guitarpcb, too. I would not mind doing a PCB for it, either, but I haven't put any time into it.

Assuming you do have matched transistors and everything is working properly, you may just be looking for a deeper phase sound like the Phase 90. The Smoothie is pretty rich but it is not necessarily "intense". I would check out some Phase 45 videos on youTube and compare your results.

You could also put in a 10k-500k trimpot in parallel with the 10uF to have some control over the charge time, I think.

9v is the minimum voltage it will supply under a full 300mA load. It's typical of poorly regulated DC supplies to deliver over that. Boss supplies are the same way (the old ones). Mine all measure 12v or more. On the other hand, good supplies should deliver the correct voltage as long as the current draw is within the specification of the supply. For example, the One Spot. I also have a 12v 200mA supply that consistently delivers a rock solid 12v.

Anyway, it really depends on what you are plugging that supply into as to whether or not is could cause damage to an effect. You could easily build up a little regulator vero with a filter cap like a 7809 (which can deliver up to 1A) and a 470uF cap and then power it from that using your existing power supply.