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Here's how I did it. Frankly, looking back at this layout it could be improved a lot. I should have handled the R28 resistor in a different way.

Anyway, let me know if anything is unclear. Other than wiring the pots, all the other wire pads are left unconnected.

Thanks for all the well wishes, everyone! I appreciate all of you.

Here's a little preview of the first design for the new pedal company. I ain't given no details But, you can easily guess. I've got a couple things on this to breadboard before prototyping it, but otherwise it is looking pretty solid.

You can use a 2n5457 or MPF102 if you have one. Or, if you are in the States I can drop a couple in the mail to you.

So I took the plunge and ordered one of the Hot Coat powder guns from Eastwood. But, I forgot about the air compressor....any recommendations for moi? Preferably of the big box store variety and not terribly expensive.

I'm pretty burned out on bare enclosures/ordering painted ones so it seems like a good opportunity for me to try something new.

www.eastwood.com/hotcoat-deluxe-powder-coat-kit.html

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=7017.0

Dude, no fuzz?

Yes.

Log = Audio = "A"
Linear = "B"
Reverse Audio = CCW Log = "C"


Except, if you are in the UK, A= linear and B = log, don't ask me why. But, in the case of smallbear and pretty much all US suppliers what I wrote above is true.

Don't worry, you are getting the hang of it.

Just remember:
1R = 1 Ohm
1000 Ohms = 1k
10,000 Ohms = 10k

As far as the madbeanpedals projects:
- Anything between 1n and 680n should be a film cap. Use caps rated between 16 - 100v.
- 1uF will be film or electrolytic depending on what is doing in a particular circuit. Anything above 2.2uF is electrolytic. 16v is okay for most projects, a few projects require 25v rated caps.
- Anything below 1n is ceramic, but you can also use film or even silver mica if you want.

Yup, it is insane! I'm really diggin the sample rate reducer...sounds really neat with the drums. Plus, any effect that makes you laugh while you are messing with it is a total winner in my book!

Cool, yeah let us know what you find. Interestingly, the input of the Zero Point is similar (without the Gain pot) so I might try larger values for the two resistors on that to see what difference it produces.

The factory schematic specified the 47/22uF combination listed in the BOM, so that is what I used. There are many schematics out there for the DMM so I don't find it surprising that you might find some variations.

As far as the input impedance, you can try doubling that 100k at the input. I believe this is what Analogman does on his impedance mod, which is probably similar to what Howard Davis does. Or, just remove it temporarily, put in a variable resistor of 500k and dial it in to where you like...then replace with a fixed resistor. You should still have plenty of gain on tap after making that adjustment, but if you feel you need more, then increase the value of R3....say 100k. Haven't tried any of these mods myself, but based on the 10 minutes of reading I just did it seems like a good idea

.47uF is the same as 470n, so it's a value 100 times smaller than 47uF.

Simple shortcuts:

.001uF = 1n = 102
.01uF = 10n = 103
.1uF = 100n = 104
1uF = 105
10uF = 106

It might be a little gated on the last repeat (just before it fades out completely), but it should not be very prominent. You may need to adjust your Gain and Bias trimmers some more.

John - That's a good point about the Gain pot. I may just go ahead and mention subbing a 1MC in the build doc.