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No need to re-invent the wheel. DIYSB has a really useful Wiki for this kind of thing.

http://www.diystompboxes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page

You can change C15 to a higher value to alter the total amount of treble. Try 10n.

You can also put a 68k in series with it to get closer to 750k.

Are these the ones that were on eBay a month or two ago?

I've audio probed each opamp, and it does sound very funky until the final one, no signal at all.  I checked on the switch side of the 220nf cap, and its there, but after nothing.  I'm getting continuity between the bottom 220nf cap pad and ground.  Something is amiss in this area, but won't get a chance for a thorough debug until Wednesday.

Most likely that's because the signal is 180 deg. out of phase with the input at that point, which is why you don't get anything when audio probing. The signal is in phase at the output of pin7 where you should hear your signal again.

Haven't used such a thing so I can't be of help. But, an alternative that is quite cheap is to use a lacquer spray can. You can coat the traces and pads in one shot. It will preserve the copper and you can solder right through it.

The single ganged pots appear to have four pins rather than three. I'm curious about the dual ganged too since it looks like it's a 9mm Alpha but with all the pins in line.

From the build doc:

09.17 Update: A couple have people have pointed out that running the Kingslayer at the max gain
setting with both the soft and hard clipping diodes lifted caused some motor-boating and/or
oscillation. This is due to the higher gain produced by using 1M for R11. For the most part, you do not
want to use the max gain setting with no diodes, but it does sound pretty good up to the half-way
point (before harsh op-amp clipping sets in). If you want to avoid this situation altogether, socket R11
and try some lower values, something between 470-750k. Keep in mind that this will also reduce the
max gain when the clipping diodes are engaged, so it may require testing a couple values to find the
best balance for your needs.

ABCFAB on eBay. I don't think he ships international, though. Not sure.

NP. You were right on top of it all the way through actually---you identified the problem, thought of potential causes and eliminated possibilities one by one. Pretty much the essence of all debugging 

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You only need to look as far as the schematic to understand what the gain pot does. It's a series resistor at the effect input. So, when it's fully counter-clockwise you have a 1M resistor in series with input (plus R1), hence less signal. When it's at max, the only resistance at the input is R1, which is 3k3.

From the build doc: You will likely find the Gain control quite sensitive in the last quarter of its range for some settings on the Nautilus.

If you want to change the behavior a bit, it's easy. Just use a lower value pot for the Gain control. 250k is probably a good choice. 100k is likely to be too small.

For the LED: don't worry if it is a little dim rather than fully off. That just means there is enough voltage there to light it up a bit when you are not playing. If you wire it to the 3PDT like I mentioned earlier then it will go fully off.

Gotcha. Yeah, dig some more in the audio path before the compander to see where you are losing signal. It should be quite loud until the 571 attenuates it before the output.

K, try this: socket R42 and try higher values there. 15k, 20k and upward.

Maybe, but probably not in a significant way. I tend to use poly film in the signal path instead of electrolytic, but that is a personal preference.

For D8 and D9, it doesn't matter which way you put them in as long as you are consistent. So, if you put the long pin on the LED in the square pad of D8, then do the same for the square pad of D9. IOW, the LEDs need to be back to back, not both going in the same direction to ground.