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Voltages look basically correct. I think we need a little more info. When you say it doesn't sound right, can you be more specific? You mentioned that you get a stronger signal near max gain---but, are you getting the filter effect at all? Or is it just your regular guitar signal?

To answer a couple of your questions: the LED will be on or off depending on where you have the Range switch set. When the Range is high the LED will always be on (even in bypass), and as you play it will dim according to the output of the envelope. When the Range is low, it's the opposite: the LED will be off and then light up as you play.

If you want to change the LED so it is always off when the effect is bypassed you can remove R20 from the PCB, wire from the neg side of the LED to R20, and the other end of R20 goes to the same lug you use on your 3PDT for your indicator LED.

The filter effect itself is very sensitive to where the Gain pot is set. You get the most effect when it is near max, so do not be surprised if much of the travel of the Gain pot doesn't do a lot. This also depends on what type of gear you are using....you can expect it to behave a little differently with humbuckers or bass or bass with active pickups.

But, if you are getting no swept filter at any setting, then something definitely is amiss. I'm just not sure if that's the case here or not.

It seems as though the compander is the issue. Have you tried swapping the one from your other build into this one?

You should expect some voltage on the 2N5087, so I do not think that is the problem.

I think you mean C9, not C5. C5 is 390n.

Short answer: yes.

C9 -negative side toward R12
C11 - negative side toward the other end of R12.
C16 - negative side toward lug3 of the Vol pot.

Either the CN or CP is fine. I use both all the time. I tend to have more of the CN cause that's what Tayda sends.

[On Nov. 5th (or soon after), I will delete all member accounts that meet the following criteria:Account has zero posts AND, member has not been active (lurked) within the last 60 days]

We've got 1800 accounts on here with no posts. That's a whole lot of lurkin' and/or fake accounts. So, I will cleaning house on these accounts very soon.

On Nov. 5th (or soon after), I will delete all member accounts that meet the following criteria:

Account has zero posts AND, member has not been active (lurked) within the last 60 days

I picked this condition because it should not lead to the deletion of any lurkers that have been active recently (browsed the forum).

No account will ever be deleted that has at least one post...so feel free to make your first in this thread!

I can give you the PNP image, but I don't have time today to get the rest into the build doc. This will get you started.

Also: I forgot-- this does not have a charge pump on it, so you should etch/use a Road Rage with it.

You lose nothing. You only reduced noise, which is good. 

In is "A", HP is OUT1, BP is OUT2 and LP is OUT3.

With the Gain fully down and the Sweep fully up you can expect this because there is minimal signal to drive the rectifier portion and the max resistance in line with the LED. Like I said in the build doc, the Sweep is for minute adjustments. One thing I did not mention is that these are most perceptible when the gain is at or near max. You could limit the dead areas more by putting a 5k1 resistor in parallel with the sweep pot to reduce it's value.

twofootskunk: can we get a couple clear pics of your build?

Yeah, you are using 100x the value for C2 and C5. Get a couple of 220pF ceramics there. Also, your C1 is 220n, not 22n. That's okay, just swap one of the 22ns you are using for C2 or C5 into C1.

What type of vactrol or LED/LDR have you used?

The TL074 you used is fine.

The Stage Fright will have an option for a switch so you can disconnect the LFO and drive the phase section with a control voltage. So, you may be able to find some kind of integration there.

Man, I would love to see some more shots of the delay section. It's hard to see, but I did not notice any microcontroller on there.

Yes, use a larger value for the pot. My preference there is 100k. 50k is probably enough, too.

Good call. Personally, I do prefer the rotary in this case mainly cause I like having a chicken head knob on there

But, yeah, an OnOnOn should do the trick if you like toggles.