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Pinout on the 2n5952 is opposite of the 2n5457, so you need to have those 180 deg from the package drawing on the silk screen.

Do you have any 2n5457s handy? What I'm thinking is just try sticking a couple of those (or J201) in there at random and see if any pair gives you any type of phasing at all.

On your trimpot---is it labeled "254"?

For your Pork Barrel--what type of BBD are you using and clock?

You can power it at either 9v or 12v. If you use an LT1054, you will need to disconnect pin1 from the PCB. The easiest way to do this is use a socket and remove the pin from the socket. Make sure you use either a 1N4001 or 12v Zener for D1, and not the 9.1v Zener.

I have tried the BY at 9, 12 and 15v. 9v and 12v are fairly comparable, but I did not like it at 15v.

You do not have to use the extra ground next to the 9v pad.

Only other thing I can think of it to replace C1 and maybe even C7. If the caps are faulty or very leaky then they could cause the pop. The pulldowns should take care of that, in theory, but it is worth a shot.

Also, are you only using a regular indicator LED, or are you also using the LFO LED indicator as described in the doc?

Great sounding Honeydripper! I heard a little "Peaches in Regalia" @ 2:30

That would be the only reason worth being older!

I would recommend doing it with something more like the DBD or Echobase. I did tap tempo with my own Echobase (different tap tempo chip) and it worked out great.

The best fit is either the DBD or Rebote, IMO because you also get modulation with Taptation, whereas this is already present on the Echobase.

Oh yeah, you can use whatever kind of LED you want there. It has no effect on the operation of the effect itself.

Do you mean LED's for the vactrols? I'm pretty sure what you have will be okay.

And yeah, just run some wire to the switches. If they are minis, they will probably fit right under. The DPDT spacing on the PCB is for the typical Mountain switches or knock-offs.

As and aside: on this layout I changed the DPDT mounting a bit from previous madbean boards. The pads are actually smaller so the switch lugs will fit firmly. No more trying to brace them in place to solder. The PCB will hold them in place now.

I saw him in concert way way back in the day. He was opening for someone...actually, it might have been a King's X show. He had the Jimi thing down to a "T"...even the clothes, moves, etc. It was pretty entertaining. I think he outgrew that, though.

I could never wrap my head around him playing the reverse Strat but with normal stringing...he plays high E to low E.

Most of us have already built what most likely is inside these

The Univibe in a 1590B is cool. I actually tired that once. However, I could not get rid of the damn noise...made it unusable. I'm guessing there is a lot of SMD in there (not that I have a problem with that).

I'm liking those knobs, too. Neato burrito!

The ST7815 should be fine.

You definitely do not want to have that 100k from tip to ground on your output jack. That resistance will be there even in bypass, and could cause some tone suck.

How did you wire your 3PDT switch? Have you tried a larger R1 resistor...says 2M2? Or, perhaps try increasing R13 to 1M.

and to piggyback 1 more question about the mutron in here....how crucial are the 1n8 values c6 & c9?  is 1n5 OK?

In this case I'd say "moderately critical". It won't ruin the effect, obviously, but the values used are chosen to emulate vocal formants, I believe. You could put small ceramics in parallel with a 1n5...300pF or close to that.

Yes, it sure can. It does not matter which you use. I forgot to mention that in the build docs...I tend to have the 3P4Ts on hand myself since they are so versatile. The one thing you can do with a 3P4T is use LED indicators for each mode if you like.