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Whoops..forgot. Jumper the Vibe pads.

I would first try disconnecting the LED from the switch and see if the pop goes away. If so, try a different LED. 4k7-10k is fine for the resistor.

Sure, just disconnect the Deep and Wet switches and jumper 3&2 of the MIX pads.

Did you install the resistors on the switch per the wiring diagram? What type of LED did you use and what value of resistor for it?

I have two designs etched and partially populated. One just a couple of days ago. One is a variation on the Nano head and the other is more or less "Fender-y". So, yeah...this is still very much on the table. And, welcome to the forum!

Open Office is great for pdfs and it is free.

It will be mid to late November. I expect the next batch will consist only of delay projects (Leviathan, Aquaboy and Zero Point) and then December will hopefully be the Harbinger and the FSH. Maybe the Moodring, too.

Saw those a couple weeks ago...really tempting. I love the natural wood look on electric guitars.

No, it's closer to the Sea Urchin/DBD. The modulation will be fixed via resistors and uses a switch to turn it on/off. Alternatively, you can wire it so the modulation is always on and have a rate pot instead of the switch. Not enough room in a 1590A for both, unfortunately.

This one is actually already prototyped and is good to go, so I expect it will be in the next batch I have made. PCB size is comparable to the Smoothie.

You can reduce R11 from 5k1 to 1k5 for a shorter time, although I don't know how many milliseconds that translates to. You don't want to go below 1k there since it will cause the PT2399 to lock up on power up. It's possible to do even shorter times, but you need to implement a fail-safe to prevent that lock up. Look at the Little Angel chorus, which has a little ramp circuit that does just that.

If you can find the right photocell then you don't have to use a vactrol. You need 10-50k light, 10M dark response.

The closest photocell listed at smallbear is either the 9200 or 9203. So, whatever you can get overseas along those lines.

It's critical to have the right photocell or vactrol for the Nautilus. Otherwise it just won't work.

Double check you values for R9, R10 and R11. You can half the value of R9 to get more dry output. However, you should not have a big volume drop as you are describing. So, R9 might be the cause of that.

1590BB will work perfectly. Plenty of space to work with....for both the fabbed and etchable versions.

Using a 1kC will make a big difference, FWIW.

Damn that is hot! Great solo.