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Yeah, I'll get that FSH done really soon. I should also have some info on the Aquaboy very soon, too. Many things are coming together right now.

They should both be On/On SPDT. You could use a center off for the clip, but with no clipping diodes to (virtual) ground it will probably sound pretty nasty.

Any tips for the two layers? Always wanted to try that.

The only trick is to create registration points on the four borders of the top and bottom images. Iron the bottom, then drill through the bottom registration points, poke a small hole in the top registration points on the PNP blue, then line them up by shining light through it. Tape it down, then iron the top.

This one was not exact but close enough that I could build it. I have gotten lucky before and gotten them exactly right. One thing to remember: you need to reverse your top image before printing it to PNP so it is mirrored correctly when you iron!

Actually, this one is pretty easy to figure out. Only notable because it is a home-made two layer board and actually sounds totally great despite the use of non-stock parts (multi-layer caps). For whatever reason, this one has a lot of even sounding harmonics...more-so than other, umm, super secret mystery mojo builds I've done.

I've done a few two layer boards like this---not really all that hard if you take your time and plan your component stuffing ahead of time.

I'll collate all this info together and make an update to the doc noting the modified values, R4 fix. The current production board is slightly different than the prototype I did (which was 5 PCB mounted pots rather than four---a change I made to allow more configurations), and R4 was probably in a different position.

I appreciate all the info---you guys are getting to be some creative box builder problem solvers!!

Thirded. Let's see your wiring to see if we can find out why the bypass tone is effected.

Does anyone think that having R4 (from the primary gain stage feedback loop) running parallel right next to R1 (input resistor) might be what's causing the out of control whine that's so heavily documented on this particular board?

This may very well be the problem here. R1 could be removed from the board and wired from the 3PDT. Alternatively, R4 could be removed and re-wired underneath the PCB. It seems that I made a poor design choice here. I can draw up a couple of diagrams for suggestions which might eliminate the problem.

I placed the order for some re-stocks a couple of days ago. Here's what's coming:

Cave Dweller (revised for a slightly more narrow layout)
Dirtbag Deluxe
Double Flush
Weener Wah

Also, I will be getting more Mudbunny, Pork Barrel and Low Riders which are about to go out of stock in the next few days. The shipment for all boards should arrive around 07.21.

Unfortunately, I was not able to get any new projects done on this run---the re-orders went right up to my available budget. The next round of boards will be a few new projects, though! I have at least a half dozen completed projects ready for manufacturing ATM.

AFAIK, yes, although you would need to switch the polarity of the charging caps on the second RR.

However, you could also do this with one charge pump---same idea except you pump up the negative voltage side. You would need to lay it out on perf or a new PCB, though. Keep in mind also what effect you are supplying and what it's current requirements are. A TC/MAX1044 will give you about 20mA. The LT1054 provides about 100mA.

You don't need to switch two caps. You only need to switch one in parallel. An 82n or 100n in will work.

Also, before doing any major disassemble, make sure to take some pics of how it is situated in the enclosure. You want to get a sense of whether or not the whole rig will come out as one piece or not first, or if any wires must be desoldered. If so, you need to have good photo reference of exactly how things are connected together before proceeding. This will ensure you can get it back together!

 

This is one I would be interested in cloning.

If I take pics, will you help with the schematic please? Im not good at that side of things.
I also have the doppelganger.

To start, we would need one clear, top down shot of the top and bottom. It should be done with a sufficient aperture so that there is minimal distortion on the edges. IOW, the two images come out as rectangles so they can be laid on top of each other. If you can start with that, the PCB itself can be recreated in Photoshop, as well as traces to a schematic.

This is one I would be interested in cloning.

The Univibe effect is created by four phase shifting stages, whereas the Phase45 is two stages. So, you won't get a true Univibe but you might be able to get something convincing. You need to set C4 and C5 on the Smoothie at a 10:1 ratio, according to the info here: http://www.lynx.bc.ca/~jc/phase45modded.gif

Switch C5 to 100n.

Haven't tried this...let us know how it works out!