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I tend to agree. If your output volume is that low we should try to find what went wrong. You might be able to get some additional volume out as is if you increase the volume pot to 500kB.

Hi Brian,

Pin 5: 8.4V
Pin8: 8.2V
Pin 7: 8.3V

with bias CCW: 8.3V
with bias CW: 0.6V
I've actually already swapped the BBD with some others I had, and it does exactly the same thing.
Thx
Warren

At 8.4v supply, pin8 needs to be around 7.8v. Looks like the voltage drop across D2 is not high enough. You should use two 1n914s in series there to try and get that voltage down. Or, socket D2 and plug in some resistors.

I'm not sure changing the NE570 will fix the problem, since the distortion seems to be generated at the BBD. What if you remove IC4 altogether and audio probe pin7 on the socket? Any distortion? The signal should be loud there but not like a fuzz.

Maybe the problem area is actually in the clock, not the BBD. I do think you need to get pin8 voltage down as mentioned above, but perhaps the BBD is not the source of the distortion.

Do you know the actual value of C41 (i.e. does your multimeter have a capacitance reader)? Do you have a way to measure the frequency of the clock signals on pins 10 or 11 of the CD4047? Lastly, what brand and suffix is your CD4047?

Just another update: I'm still waiting on the manufacturer to ship, but I expect this to happen anytime now. My apologies again on the longer than expected wait. I do believe they will ship to me within the next couple of days.

This is how you tell who has kids here and who doesn't---posting in a MEME thread on a Friday night.

Oh, and

Ermmm.

Well, you have the source of the problem more or less pinpointed so that's a good start.

What about pin5 on IC4? What you should be reading is
pin5 - 8.2v
pin8 - 7.7v (or around that---something less than pin5)
pin7 - depends on where BIAS1 is set, but between 6-8v usually.

Your voltages don't seem too far off, and it's normal to have a narrow range on the BIAS trim where the delay passes. Usually this range is not at the extreme, in my experience.

Try this: turn BIAS1 fully counter clockwise and do a voltage reading on pin7 of IC4. Now turn it fully clockwise and take the reading again. What do you get for these two?

Also, if you are getting a lot of distortion on IC4, try swapping in the BBD from IC5 there temporarily and audio probe pins 3 and 4. Still get the same thing? (just wondering if it could be a bum v3205).

As it says on pg.5, R16 is used as a current limiting resistor for the LED indicator. That resistor and the pads for the LED are present in the single sided, etchable version which you are building but were not included in the manufactured double-sided version.

So, if you want to include the LED circuitry from the single sided PCB, a 4.7k is pretty common.

If you are wiring your LED off-board like the wiring diagram illustrates, then you can omit the resistor and associated LED from the PCB.

They will work fine for builds requiring one or two pots. You might be able to squeeze three in okay...depends on how close they can be, what knobs you are using, etc.

If you have signal at pin5, but not pin7 then I would check the following carefully for solder bridges, bad joints, or faultiness: R12, C9 and R13.

Yes, you must use D2 and C17 when building the v3205 version. If you are getting no wet signal, you should audio probe pin7 of IC4 first to make sure you are getting signal to the first BBD. If so, then probe pins3 and 4 while adjusting the BIAS1 trim to see if you are getting the delayed output. Then repeat for IC5.

If you are getting input at IC4 but no output, at that point I suggest taking some voltage readings on it and posting them.

Most of the Boss style pedals use flip-flops and a contact switch. A good deal of those are not true-bypass, if you care about such a thing. Unfortunately, there are not really any "cheap" alternatives as you can see from the clickless true bypass and AMZ solutions. But, those are certainly alternatives if you don't mind investing the extra $$.

[jighead81]

Thanks to jighead81 and his keen eyes for noticing that the IN and OUT labels on the silkscreen layer of the new FatPants 2012 board are swapped! I've made a note of this in the documentation and corrected the silk layer for the single sided layout. It's too late to make the correction on the manufactured board, unfortunately.

Just remember- IN and OUT wires need to be reversed for the manufactured PCB. The Single Sided version has been corrected.

So sorry

Corrected doc:

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/FatPants/docs/FatPants.pdf

Yes, it will be coming soon. I will be changing things up for the next few months so I plan on releasing less projects at once, but more frequently--hopefully 2 or 3 new ones per month plus whatever needs to be re-stocked. So, I expect the Stage Fright will be one of the next.

I've got no pics but I do have a half-decent PDP kit and a Roland TD-6. Plus, a few snares.

My wife works for Mapex...does their web design actually. I have not received my free Mapex kit yet!

Is the pre-order stuff still shipping this week?

I updated the Projects page yesterday with new info:

04.05 - Pre-Orders are still being manufactured. Shipping has been moved until the second week of April. I will announce a firm shipping date on the forum once I receive confirmation from the manufacturer.