Messages

Tremulus Lune is awesome!

I did mine using the Tonepad layout with some of the extra mods.

http://code.google.com/p/diy-layout-creator/

http://www.gimp.org/

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=3915.msg34891#msg34891

For non 1590a builds will 1/4w standy up resistors be OK ?

Of course

There is a link in the document to the full resolution pics that you can download.

You've built the right one. The revision number is printed right below IC3.

Given that one LM324 is misbehaving I would focus attention on that. You are correct in that the switch and pots go underneath the board. The stopper ring should be in the fourth position on the rotary switch.

If the pots are not doing anything at all, you should audio probe around IC1A and the Fuzz pot to see why it's not doing anything.

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=4397.0

Here it is: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/downloads/BabyBoardGuide.pdf

(right-click, save as)

Rest well, and I'm sure you will be back to ripping throats in no time.

night-B  - I'll have info on the parts and hardware used for the build  in this doc I'm working on (actually the build tutorial portion is done---just gotta get the links for the parts in there).

pryde  - The Outlander is going to be a sort-of combination of an OCD and Zen Drive, I think. I have high hopes for it but I haven't even breadboarded it yet 

Haberdasher  - The Collosalus requires a 1590BB.

Here's a little Runtiness.

I'll keep in mind to socket that capacitor! There's no dual IC layout (as in the porkbarrel and currentlover) for this one?

Paul

No, this is MN3007 only.

For the Collosalus, I found 47pF worked best with the clock (most likely because of the clock buffer), but I do suggest having a 33pF and 22pF handy just in case.

Ramengo,

You can do the diodes switching on the Runt, but you are not going to be able to fit it all in a 1590A enclosure, I'm afraid. You can remove the sweep pot on the Slow Loris by jumpering pads 1 and 2 for the Sweep pot on the PCB.

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All the documentation for the new projects is now available, except for the Collosalus. I have added dimensions for the Baby Boards PCBs in each document, and I have also made notes in the Slow Loris doc repeating this: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=4362.0

To do: The Collosalus will take a bit of time to document, but I am attaching both the schematic and BOM to this post for anyone who wants to get their parts together. Also, I will be typing up the ordering guide for the Baby Board today and tomorrow, so I will let everyone know once that is online.

NOTE_ There is a 500k trimpot missing for the BOM. That is for the Clock (it's in the schematic).

A mistake has been found on both the Slow Loris and Runt schematics. R8 on the existing schematics is shown in the wrong location. Instead of its current position before C12, it should be tied directly to the gate of Q1. Please see the the pics below which show the correct position of R8 on the schematic and the correct location to tie R8 off on the Slow Loris PCB so that it is tied directly to the transistor.

The good news is that if you have already built the Slow Loris, you do not need to change anything. I tested this out thoroughly a few days ago, and there is no detectable alteration in tone. I tested with R8 in both locations at all gain and tone settings as well as with the guitar volume rolled down and there was no impact. Therefore, I suggest leaving it as is if you have already completed your build. If you want to change it anyway, the pic below shows where to tie off R8. You can do this by cutting the trace on the bottom side of the board between R8 and C12, and then running a jumper to the other side of C12.

The Runt and next batch of Slow Loris boards will have this fixed. I will correct the existing Runt schematic and re-upload the doc ASAP. Since the Slow Loris was already due to run again, the correction has been made on that PCB, too. The next batch of Slow Loris boards will be the same layout (with the correction) and have a "03.12" date on them to differentiate from the previous batch. Obviously, I will also be updating the SL docs to reflect the change and mistake.

Thanks to oldhousescott who pointed out the error! And, my apologies as well.