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I've already got the AD99 drawn, I think. Lemme check.

Oh, it will. Actually, I will be boxing up my build here in a couple of days for a demo.

Everyone does something new now and again. It's nothing to be worried about.

The regulator two supply pins and a ground pin. One supply accepts the input voltage and the other supply pin spits out the regulated voltage. That's the pin that gets wired to the one pad on the PCB in place of R19.

Most of the time, you also hook up some largish electrolytic caps for filtering, but in this case, you probably won't need to because you already have those on the populated PCB.

So, you should use some perf for the regulator, connect three wires to three pads, solder the pins from the regulator to adjacent pads and make sure you have each pin soldered to one wire. You should look at the datasheet to see which pin does what. Connect the wires to their respective destinations--18v, ground and the VDD supply on the PCB.

I recommend using a large enough amount of perf so that you can bend the pins of the regulator at a 90 deg angle and lay the regulator flat. This will allow you to more easily mount in in the enclosure (like on a free inside wall) since that type of regulator is larger than the ones you see in regular transistor size casings.

If using an 18v DC supply, use a T220 type 15v regulator
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fairchild-Semiconductor/LM7815CT/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtzPgOfznR9QbROdQku1Isa

The purpose of R19 is to create a slight "wall" between the two different power sections. One power section, VDD, is for the BBD and clock. The other power section is for everything else. The wall allows each section a limited amount of separation from one another to isolate them and thus reduce the chances of unwanted noise.

In this case, the "wall" is actually going to be the 18v and regulated 15v supplies, instead of a resistor. So, you remove the resistor and connect the 15v to the pin pad of R19 that connects to the VDD supply portion of the circuit. The other pin of the resistor is connected to the 18v supply automatically through the PCB, and is left empty because the 18v supply is already going to be connected to the "9v" pad.

No it's not buffered. Jut omit the stuff on the Serendipity board and do the one on the 3PDT one.

R19 is where the VDD voltage splits off from the main supply voltage. This is the voltage that supplies the BBD. So, what he is saying is that he's used a 15v regulator off an 18v supply and then wired that in place of R19 to supply the BBD with 15v. Then the rest of the circuit is run at 18v (it seems). It gives you pretty much the best of everything.

Well, the 3208 clones are pretty easy to get. Smallbear still has some of the "fake 3005" pairs, which are 3008s. I have a pair of those, myself.

The only potential issue with retro-fitting a breakout board to the existing PCB is proximity of the BBDs on the board to the clock. But, if you use some pin standoffs to raise the 4x BBDs up a bit that should prevent any clock noise from creeping into the signal path. You just have to use a taller enclosure, at most.

Same thing happened with at least a couple of people who did the double delay mod on the old Aquaboy board---the added BBD could be made to hover right over the clock if proper standoffs were not used which resulted in the noise.

I had a picture somewhere of how I did mine---I used some pins to raise the breakout about 5-6mm or so and had no problem with that.

Mine was $9 for Priority which I consider reasonable considering it's three enclosure plus a bunch of other stuff. Personally, I don't mind paying the Priority rate for the small or medium sized boxes, provided that is what is actually shipped. I have had some experiences with several suppliers charging those rates but not shipping those boxes, though. Honestly, I don't get that....the boxes are free from USPS. Why charge a Priority box rate and then ship in a regular mailer...which is usually smaller than the box? It costs the supplier more to do it that way and the customer is overcharged for shipping. Not calling anyone out specifically, but I've had that happen several times.

Yeah a hybrid is an interesting idea. Or, a tube-based analog delay. Or both

I'm actually all for this, although not for the Aquaboy. Too much time and money has already been spent on developing the AB Deluxe and the redesign of the original AB board to change course now.


However, there are still plenty of possibilities for doing something on the BL3208 ("a" or "b" version), so I'm down. It would be a good opportunity to maybe look at some alternate companding and filtering solutions, as well...something new and different from the standard DM-2 and DMM variety.

My guess is replace R28 with a 50k pot and a small stopper resistor, like 6k8-15k.

The charge pump appears to be malfunctioning or something is making it not operate correctly.

Of course, I'm one to talk considering my "store", such as it is, is as basic as it can be

So, I'm trying to order some painted enclosures from PPP. There are some standard, premium colors I need, and a brushed translucent finish. FFS, what web developer came up with their system of ordering painted enclosures? I am not dumb, but there's something terribly wrong with having to add four items to your cart just to get one type of painted enclosure. Maybe I should email them to make them aware of drop down menus.

Sheesh!