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I have to ask...is there any way to put a tap tempo on a Cave Dweller?

If you have a tap tempo solution like the Taptation, I don't see why not.

It must be LED type. I just had a look and I believe mine were from Tayda. They list their water clear high brightness forward voltage at 3.2v or so and the MCD at 16 - 20k (for the white). Do you have any others you can try? I might have some more of those particular LEDs left, so I could always drop a couple in the mail to you.

Oh, NM. I just logged in and there is some stuff there...thanks for the reminder---I almost missed the first day of class!

There's still time to register, peoples! Get your learnin.

I signed up a couple of weeks ago. Other than a confirmation email, I haven't received anything about the actual start of the class, though.

With R3 at 200k, this means your minimal gain on 1C1A is 2, which is why you cannot get down to unity. A bit different situation with R19 since that is for the LED, so it is not influencing the actual audio path. But, I would replace both with 22k.

Welcome to the forum!

If your pot is linear (which is what "B" is here in the States, although I think B is audio in Europe, right?) reversing it won't do any good. But, and audio taper will be reverse audio when hooked up backwards.


You can pull your 500k pot down toward 5k by soldering a 5k1 resistor on the two outside lugs of the pot.

If your LED is not lighting up, check to make sure you have the anode/cathode of the LED going to the right place (anode goes to a current limiting resistor which connects to 9v and cathode connects to the bypass switch).

From Wiki




The last problem---sounds like it's not boosting your signal at all. It could be a faulty BS170, so you might need to replace it on the PCB, assuming you have used the right part and it's in the right orientation.

Probably the simplest way to do that is wire the bypass switch between IC1A and IC1B and then connect the effect output to the output jack and the effect input to the input jack.

So, you could leave C3 and R4 off the PCB, use the empty pads as your connection to the switch. You need to add C3 and R4 in the return path to the board via a small amount of perf attached to the switch. You might need an output cap for IC1A, too, but maybe not.


from PCB ------ switch in - switch out --- C3/R4 -------- to PCB

I don't know if you will get any popping switching it out this way. If you add a pulldown and  decoupling cap from pin1 of IC1A that might fix any popping that occurs.

Something more complicated, yet elegant, would be like a transistor-based switch, where you make an NPN act like a series resistor. So, when the base of the transistor is pulled to ground, the signal stops at the collector, and when the base goes to VC, it acts likes a resistor and lets signal flow from the collector to emitter. This is closer to what I'll be doing with the Aquaboy Deluxe and its tails feature, although I have not actually gotten around to working the thing up yet.


ANYWAY, point being is yes it is definitely possible but I personally don't have an exact procedure or wiring diagram drawn up for it at the moment.

That was only a suggestion as an alternative to using a 1k5 resistor for R19.

You repeat# and level might be fixed by a different resistor value, as Josh mentioned. It could even be a bad pot.

Re-check R2 to make sure it's 100k and R3 is 22k. My guess is one of those might be incorrect in your case.

The way I have it set up on the newly revised version (as far as the VDD supply) is a 100R resistor for R19 and then an 8.2v Zener in parallel with C18. You could do it this way on ver.2 by adding the Zener underneath the PCB. The cathode goes to the top part of R19 and the anode can go to the free ground pad right next to C18.

That will work. When the pot is all the way counter clockwise, you will have 100k of series resistance, which is what helps reduce the subsequent fuzz. When it's all the way up, no resistance is present, so you get full on fuzz.

-.6v on what, though? The collector of Q2? If so, are you using a trimpot to adjust the bias? Are you sure you have the transistor oriented correctly on the PCB?

I like the Hipster one! Hipsters make me laugh...

Jacob

They used to make me laugh.....before they got so popular.

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