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Are you sure it's the circuit clipping (ie hard clipping) or is it your amp overdriving? It's supposed to cook the crap out of the front end of your amp, so if it's not hard-clipping or nasty sounding then it's doing its job, I'd say.

It's actually a nice dirty boost. In the vintage version, it wasn't true bypass so you could use it to boost your clean signal, then kick in the delay when you wanted.

Hey everyone.

I've noticed a couple of builds that have the LEDs in place by themselves without being placed into a bezel. I was just wondering, when you do that, how do you secure it in place?

Highly trained ants.

That's the design of the DMM....it's the basic function of the Level pot to act as a boost when turned up. If you don't want all the boost you can lower the value of the pot. 250k or 500k audio would be good choices. Or, just leave it turned down.

That is baffling.

Have you tried flipping a buffer on and off before the delay as well? That might be a clue.

If you don't have any 220pF or closely related values available, then you can leave that cap off or use a 1n. I would not go higher than that.

It makes all the difference in the world. I use some 3M stuff that is fine like steel wool but it is more of a sanding pad, not little fibers. Steel wool is fine, but it irritates the skin and it flakes off. Steel wool loves to travel through the room and attach itself to the poles of single coil pickups, too.

Anyway, polish the PCB by going back and forth horizontally and vertically a few times. Then do a quick angled crosshatch polish. The traces will brighten up and you will see lots of tiny parallel scratches on the surface. This is what makes the solder adhere easily. After polishing, wipe down with Acetone. Press down kinda hard with the cleaning cloth and you will see all that junk come right off.

Do this, and your solder will adhere just as easily as the pads of a fabbed board and will come out clean as you could ever want.

With NPN transistors, you do need to change the orientation of the electrolytics and protection diode,and the wiring should be standard negative ground. You can use the general wiring diagram as a guide for that. The LED gets a resistor between +9v and the anode and then the cathode (flat side) goes to the switch.

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/tutorials/downloads/StandardWiring_MBP.pdf

The Fat control does two things. It brings the source pin of the JFET closer to ground, which increases the output, and it acts as a variable filter with the 22n cap in parallel. If you want to increase the overall low end, you can either remove the cap or increase its value. I suggest increasing the value since that actually adds to the gain, too. Try 220n on up. The "Body" control in v.3 puts a 47uF in there which gives you a very full range and tons of gain.

Are you polishing and cleaning the PCB well enough before soldering? That makes a big difference. You need to scratch up the copper with some steel wool or similar then thoroughly clean it with Acetone. If you do this there the solder will adhere very easily with proper heat.

You used .22 tant for 220pF? That's why it's bassy! Because you used 220n, not 220pF.

You don't have to. It's a bit easier to change bits fast if you do, though.

Oops I didn't see the 10 min part.  Mine were locking up on power up.

Josh

You can actually design something around that if you use an LM317 instead of the regular 7805. The datasheet has a little circuit for a slow warm up....I think that might take care of the lockup problem. I've tested it out, but not on a PT2399. It's really similar to the anti-lockup circuit from the Little Angel, except in that case it doesn't control the regulator but the VCO pin of the PT2399. Obviously, that way works really well, too!

If it's something you think you will be doing often, then yeah. I use a Dremel and the drill press attachment. I've probably drilled 4000 boards with it, lol. I actually burned out the motor on my first Dremel from using it so much.

Plus, carbide bits. Don't use HSS bits---carbide last 50x longer if you are careful when drilling.

http://drillcity.stores.yahoo.net/10wirsizpac8.html

10 new #67 bits cost $15 and will last quite a while. I use those and #60 for larger holes like for PCB mounted pots.

You can do it well or you can do it cheaply...that's pretty much the choice. Even the less expensive Dremels will be easier to do hand-held than a cordless drill. The reason your bits are breaking is because they have almost no tolerance to lateral force when they are spinning, which a hand held drill has plenty of.