Messages

I means you are not even getting signal into the BBD. That's good, because it means the BBD may actually be working correctly, but it has no signal to process.

So, you need to trace back and see where your input drops off. Probe pin1 of IC1 and pin7. See if you have output in both of those places.

Looks awesome. Dark Zag---what a cool name.

Where did you get you pt2399's from.  I had a lock up problem with a batch off ebay.

Josh

It would seem that's not the case here since it's not locking up when powered on. Or, did you have a similar experience with the bad batch?

Look at the schematic to see that those pins on IC4 are grounded. You are good there.

You are getting signal through, just no effect, correct?
Do you have any signal going into pin3 of the MN3007? Any signal coming out of pins 7 or 8?
Have you tried any other values for C18 other than 22pF, such as 15pF or 47pF?
Since is the MN3007 version, have you omitted D4 and D5?

Thanks for posting voltages first. They seem to be good, in general.

You certainly can use 1/8W resistors in a fuzz, although I have not actually done this myself. I'm going to build up the new Eric Johnson spec'd FF on the little 1590A baby fuzz I'm working on, and I will probably use 1/8W for that.

I think those Allen Bradys would be a totally cool. I've got a bunch of them in super dumb values and 1/4W that I picked up cheaply from a local shop a few years ago. Like, who ever needs a 164K carbon comp? Well, I have them if I ever need them!

Anyway, of course it's good to get informed and read other people's opinions, but I can tell you from experience don't take anything anyone says as law. Do the experimentation yourself and let your own ear guide you as to what sounds good and does not. No one can tell you what you like. Personally, I always ignore what people say or recommend about what parts to use and go with what I have and what I have learned sounds good to me.

As far as a pull-down, there is no reason AT ALL to use a carbon comp...it's not in series with the signal path. Use them for the rest of the circuit, but just stick with carbon film or metal for the pull-down.

And, if you are paying attention, you know to ignore what I just said and try for yourself

The Current Lover temporarily went out of stock yesterday, but I did add some more in the inventory. There are about 15 left until the re-order needs to be placed.

It's funny because when I initially built up my own D-Bag, I did the exact same thing---bent one of the IC pins on the modulation chip.

Have you checked to make sure it's putting out 5v? Also, try powering it up and check it continuously for about 2-3 minutes with your DMM to see if the voltage is draining somehow.

Why are you using an LM3508?

This is what I use: http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=693

The right angle ones on SB have the extra mounting pins which are great, but not for 1590a builds.

If you have not noticed, Soundcloud embedding is now enabled on the forum. If you have some audio you want to embed, just click the cloud button, insert the Souncloud link to your media and witness the magic of the internet.

Also, I went ahead and ordered one of these fairly cheap on the Amazon: http://www.samsontech.com/zoom/products/handheld-audio-recorders/h2n/

Between that and the video camera, you guys can start expecting a LOT of demos from me.

Stick with the 9mm---the 12mm are smaller in width but about the same height as 16mm.

What I do is use a bit of perf and cut it down to two rows of three pads. One row gets the pins from the pot and the second row gets the wires (and fold the leads over to the first row). It works well and does not add any significant height. Plus, it's a lot easier than soldering the wires directly to the pins on the 9mm.

I accidentally managed to lock this part of the forum to new posts when I added the "project development blog". It should be unlocked now.

Ah okay! Now I understand. This could mean the LFO is not working for some reason. You could still get some warble adjusting the pot this way.

Hmm...well, let's have some voltages off the pins on IC7. The voltages on pins 6 and 7 should vary slightly.

You say you get pitch changing and warble. That's what the modulation is. The knob should increase the intensity of the effect as you turn it up. Does it stop working as you turn it up? I'm a little unclear.