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I understand. And thanks for the nice compliments!

Unfortunately, you are out of luck on asking someone to make a Sunking PCB for you (for sale). It's one of only two or three projects that I don't allow to be sold here any longer. You could always try making one yourself, or checking out some of the other Klon layouts out there. There are several on FSB. There's a PCB run being done on BYOC for some Klon boards. GuitarPCB has something like the Klon, but's it's not an exact clone, I think. Maybe some kind soul has a leftover manufactured Sunking PCB they can part with.

Yes. for this project that's the way it works.

For Loophole2, that's one of the things I will be working on eliminating.

I know for sure I have the stuff on my laptop...I'll upload the schematic from there. IIRC, I made a couple small revisions to Briggs drawing, but nothing major.

Hooking it up to stuff is actually pretty straight-forward.

I've added 30 more to the inventory. That's all of em.

Sorry---I am behind (as usual). Catching up on everything today and tomorrow.

When it's done.

LMFAO 

Not meant to be intentionally snippy on my part...

It's pretty much the answer from here on out to all future questions on release dates, lego....no fault for asking on your part, but I always get into trouble when things don't go as planned (which is pretty much all the time).

I was being coy.

I can show you how to do it....let me see if I can work up a little sketch for you.

When it's done.

As far as a flanger...it think it's actually possible and I have a pretty good idea of how to do one. But, nothing solid on that yet...mostly a tickle of an idea.

Welcome to the forum!

I'm a little confused as to whether you mean PCBs for madbeanpedals projects or something else when you say "custom PCB".

Anyway, if you are looking for PCBs for the discontinued projects, please go to the BUY/SELL/TRADE area. Forum member Habedasher can get you hooked up.

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=2038.0

Yup.

You should be able to get clean, non fizzy wah, so I think it may come down to the particular transistor used in Q1. Try going up to 560R and see if that fixes it without reducing the output too much.

If you want to do LEDs with order switching you'll want to use a 4PDT instead. Make the center pole of the 4th switch ground, and attach the cathodes of the LEDs to the two outer lugs.

Welcome to the forum!

If you are using metal jacks, like the Neutrik, you only need to connect the sleeve of one jack to ground. The sleeve of the second jack connects to ground through the enclosure.

If you are using plastic enclosed jacks, you should ground the sleeves of both jacks. In that case, you use a wire to connect the sleeve of the output jack to the sleeve of the input jack.

cjkbug has won the internets today for not only doing badass builds, but also for the proper use of background props in his photographing.

You will be receiving a prize of my choosing at a near-future date.

100uF or 220uF works just fine.

Holy crap that's awful. I'm glad to see you check in. Welcome back!

If any of those parts DID get burned up, check out the new "parts bin" section---I'm pretty sure we could rustle up some donation components to replace the smoked ones