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Sweet! You built a big badass effect AND debugged it, too! It's a good day (I'm not being facetious--I really think like this, ha ha).

Try engaging the switch an use your multimeter to read the cathode and anode pins of the LED. What do you get when it's supposed to be on?

Here's an explanation of how this circuit works:

C1 decouples the input of the circuit from the AC source. It removes the AC component and leaves the DC, which is what our circuits like to work with. The "+" end goes toward pin2 because that is the highest voltage. We know that because the op-amp is biased to about 4.5v via the voltage divider created by R3 and R4.

R1 does two things: sets the overall input impedance (along with C1 to some degree, I think) and works in tandem with R2 to set the overall output on pin1. For an inverted input like this one, the output gain is R2/R1.

To make it as close to a 1:1 ratio on input and output, we make R1=R2. This is in an ideal op-amp but it's not exact in the real world. But, close enough.

Lowering R1 for making it into a boost simply increases the output (higher gain) of the amp. Since the total gain for inverted input like this one is R2/R1, the output gain is 100 if R1 is 10k and R2 is (up to) 1M. Raising R2 to 1M means you also have to increase C2 to re-adjust the corner frequency of the filter created by R2and C2. 100pF might be too high, but 47pF is a good value. Even 22pF. It's a soft-corner, so your ear may or may not hear the difference in adjacent values. Too high, and you will for sure notice the treble loss.

Also, the formula for calculating corner frequency here as with everything else: 1/(2*PI*R*C), where R=R2 and C=C2 in this case.

((((((((((  F(c) = 1/(2*Pi*R*C) is the MOST important formula to know by heart (other than Ohms) in circuit design and analysis---learn it, live it, love it

It works the same for LP and HP filters. The slope (for a single pole) is -6dB per octave.)))))))))))

C3 decouples the output of the circuit. We have to do this because the bias voltage that makes it operate is about 4.5v. We can't have 4.5vDC coming out our circuit, so decoupling it adds the AC portion back in and effectively makes the output 0v.

R5 sets the output impedance, so yes, increasing it will increase the output imp. 10k might be enough in a lot of cases, but 100k is also a good all around value.



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It's early, so hopefully I haven't made any embarrassing gaffes in the breakdown

I think it would be fun to see just how many of bean's mini projects I could get into a single enclosure. /ponders...

That's definitely one of the ideas driving this. You could get 3 in a 1590BB...maybe if you stagger the bypass switches.

Any chance for a demo?

For sure. I'll do one today.

Does that mean I'm getting 5 lashes?!?!                           Thanks for the help!

Yes, but not until your birthday.

Here ya go. Eagle files are in the zip if you want to make a little PCB. If you are building in the same box as your delay, you can leave off C5 and D1. R5 can be increased to 100k, if needed.

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BTW: you could also use this to make a simple booster. Lower R1 to 10k, use a 1M pot for R2 wired as a variable resistor and increase C2 to 47 -100pF. It will sound really nice.

Extra credit: make R1 3k3, and use two back to back 1n914s in place of C2 and put C2 on the Gain pot. Now you gots an overdrive.

Yeah, is your DC supply a wall wart? 9v wall warts put out 9v minimum under load, but the actual supply voltage could very well be too high --12 - 14v. That could cause the problem.

Wasn't me. I administer three lashings for posting in the incorrect sub-forums.

Thanks a bunch for posting your mods!

You could fix this with a little additional circuitry. Since space is tight in the DB, you might want to do a dedicated unit for correcting phase issues if you are doing a lot of stuff in stereo.

I could draw it up for you in like 10 minutes if it's something you want to do.

Yeah, it's inverted output from the DB that is causing this.

Here you go:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/163-1000-EX/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu2f9RNbWupYpjcnvBCo1U8pWq%252bWb5iDAI%3d

Those are locking type but work just fine with regular 2.1mm plugs.


I like these when not using a battery hook-up: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kobiconn/163-1060-EX/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu2f9RNbWupYnIgpIEIrT90cxuQB4NBfZ4%3d

A couple of projects which I thought were finished I may want to spend some more time on

Are the stage fright and collosus still a go?

thanks

Yes, both of those are for sure.

You need to ground both the input and output jacks. The plastic encased ones do not ground to the enclosure like the metal framed ones.

Hmm...that IS weird. You can hear on my demo of the CL that it is not particularly dark.

Couple things I can think off the bat: if you checked all the caps and they are the correct values, it's possible that a resistor might be slightly off. That could definitely affect the filtering.

OTOH - it could be something simple like a cap grounding out somewhere that should not. Actually, that's not so simple from a de-bugging standpoint.

You may have to audio probe the build to find out where the darkness gets introduced.

Depending on how much trouble it is for you, a short sound sample in a addition to a few pics of the pCB and your wiring might help.