Messages

Couple things -

I did not have a noticeable drop in volume when engaged, but I'll look at the schem again and suggest a possible mod for increasing output level, if desired.

The PCB is done and can be submitted for production with the next batch. On that note, I might re-evaluate just exactly what the next batch is going to be. A couple of projects which I thought were finished I may want to spend some more time on, and projects that I thought were a ways off turned out to be more or less done (esp. a number of baby boards).

I'll try to get a more concrete plan for the next batch and get it posted in a couple of days. I will be including at least a couple of baby boards, though. There were a lot of requests in the Feb. batch "poll" so I want to take those into consideration too.

Sounds marvelous!



Here's how I'm wiring up my 1590As----actually works out really well with the PCB on top of the jacks.

Yeah. It's 299-value, ex 299-4.7k.

200 for $4.

These are 11-detent
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=313-3000F-

One warning though: seems like a lot of people haven't cared for the frequency pot control and preferred to just use a single fixed 10n or 15n cap. FWIW.

I'm flopping on never building a SWAW..
Is there gonna be a regular and deluxe version as well?

Yeah, I think so. It's the approach I'm going to be taking with a lot of future projects--one stripped down version of a project for 1590B or 1590A and one mega-ultra-super version for the ones where I want to add lots of extra features (and make unnecessarily complicated).

Grab a spare DC plug, put just a little tiny bit of lighter fluid  or DW40 on it then insert and twist a few times.

Obviously, you want to wait a while for it to evaporate before trying it again since you just put lighter fluid inside. But, it may clean the connections.

You could always try a hair dryer on low first to dry the socket out.

I just noticed the LR doc doesn't have a pic of the trace layouts. I've been including these more recently. Here it is...will probably help you a lot!

Let me see if I can clarify: each pad you see on the PCB is a singular pad. It connects to either components on the top side of the board or bottom side through traces. The traces on the top and bottom usually go to different places, so a top trace may connect the pad to one end of a resistor (via another pad), and the bottom may connect to a capacitor somewhere else. The pads themselves are "plated though". This means whenever you solder an actual lead or wire to the pad, it makes all the connections at once because the top and bottom portion of each pad is connected via s small amount of plating in each pad hole.

So, if you rip up or melt off a pad on the top, for instance, you may lose the connection to whichever component the top trace routes to. But, the bottom connection should be okay, because assuming the pad is intact on the bottom, the trace attached to it is also still in place.

However, it's much simpler than that. Whenever you lift a pad, top or bottom, all that is required is to figure out what trace that pad connected to, and then use a wire to jumper from the lead on the lifted pad to the "end of the line".

Here's a pictorial example from the LaVache. The green area I've highlighted is where we are going to make the example.  The pad that the end of D2 goes in is routed on both the top and bottom to different places. On the top (red) it goes to D1 and C3. On the bottom (grey) it goes to the middle pad for the Shape switch.

If you lifted the pad on the top, then you would run a wire (on the bottom of the board) from that D2 pad to where the top trace connects to D1 or C3 (meaning their pads). If you lifted the bottom instead, then you would connect the wire from the lead of D2 on the bottom to the middle pad on the Shape switch. If you managed to lift top and bottom, you would need to run wires to BOTH places (always do it on the bottom of the PCB--it's easier).

Hopefully, that makes it clear. BTW: the large grey areas on the bottom are all part of the ground plance. The connect to grounded pads via little tiny slivers of traces (called Thermals) which you can just make out in the pic.

Let me know if there is still any confusion

Hello Brian. Thank's for your fast reply.
Are you 100% sure that is a DPDT (On-On-On) swith? I'm asking this because i'm still a real noob with electronics and the King Of Klones (single chanel version of the Arisocrat) instructions ask for a DPDT (On-Off-On) switch to do that mod (quoting the KoK instructions "You can use a DPDT On/Off/On in place of the internal dip switch. When wired as illustrated in the above diagram, you will get the clipping on the
two outside positions of the toggle switch, and a clean boost when the toggle is in the center position."
Please tell me what switch do i have to order.
Best regards
Ricardo

My bad. It's what the project doc says. The middle position is no clipping diodes. I mis-remembered what was in the document 

Would it be possible to have switchable HP/LP/BP filter topologies? That would be awesome.

I'm excited about all the upcoming projects.

Not for this project. The idea here is that the circuit design is so similar in those three pedals, it's possible to get a something very close to them depending on what values are used (even though it's not an exact clone of any).

It would be really awesome to make something that sounds similar to these:





But, goes in this:


And, then...(yeah, I like to tease)

Compared to my other P45 build, this one sounds a bit more aggressive. I need to do a side by side and look back at what JFETS I used in the older one. This particular build has 2n5457 in it, and are closely matched.

For your phasing needs or otherwise.

Hopefully a completed build by then end of the weekend!

Here's the schem. What's missing is a single cap after R6--it will most likely be 100n, but I will confirm once I check my breadboard again. It's to remove some of the DC noise on the mix pots.

50kA might also be a better choice for the Dwell knob, since the best action on it happens in the first half of the rotation, but linear also works fine.

It requires 1/8W resistors and multi-layer or monolithic film caps. Tanatalums for the electrolytic is also a good choice. C13 can go as low as 10uF (that's what I used).

Remember: some distortion is part of the character of the vintage DMM. That level pot is a huge boost, so naturally if you start cranking it up, it's going to start breaking up.

Glad the compander issue was resolved.

Try a larger value for the 240pF as you mentioned. 270pF would be the most common value above 240.