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It's also pretty high gain, in terms of distortion and boost. But, it should not be so noisy that it competes with the actual effected signal....it should not be as loud as the distorted signal, for example.

Personally, I tend to throw one or two mojo components in most builds strictly for the fun of it.

Yeah, there is nothing wrong with using carbon film. That's what I used. I only meant if you do have metal this type of effect does benefit from lowering its noise floor as much as possible.

Metal film: ideal.

The TC will handle the 12v, no problem. Just use a well regulated supply.

Even the MAX1044 handles 12v, according to frequencycentral. He uses them all the time in his tube pedal designs.

Sorry for my lack of timely response, and thanks sockeye and juansolo.

The Sunking doc has been removed from the main projects page for a while (probably not permanent), but if anyone else needs a copy to finish a project please just let me know.

Just when I think my pedalboard is done, Brian, you make something like this. My brain=

I probably shouldn't mention the potential integration with some of the Molten Voltage CV IC's they make. Who doesn't want a tap tempo phaser, I ask?

I was tweaking with the values all last night and found something very interesting; my filter section doesn't work like it is supposed to. I took the frequency pot out of the mix (and that second cap) and it sounds absolutely epic now, similar seep range as my Wizard but much much warmer. No more crazy volume drop. I am just going to leave the pot and and use the external control for something else (peak maybe).

I did check the 4.7uf cap as well to make sure that wasn't giving me any problems. According to Keen's article this is responsible for changes in volume throughout the sweep.

What I found was this; the capacitor that is always connected to the feedback loop (3.9n) has a huge impact on the bass frequencies through the majority of the sweep of the Freq control. In other words, there is not a smooth blend between 3.9 and 100. The pot was adding very small amounts of bass to one end of the wah sweep until it shorted to the 100n when then there was a sudden large change in resonant frequency. I tested the other way around (100n always connected) and was getting the same thing except reverse (super bassy all the way up).

Ill post another sound clip tonight or this weekend but the change is huge. I am using a 15n feedback cap but may switch to a 22n.

Thanks for giving your feedback. 100n might be overkill, so it may be worth mentioning in the doc that smaller values might be more palatable if one is using the Freq control...I tend to go for extreme settings sometimes

One thing I did not mention in the doc was that there is a little amount of "play" in the full turn of the ICAR shaft and the pinion, meaning it's possible to go just a bit high or low when trying to marry the two things together. I did a small readjustment to get the range I liked on mine by lining the teeth up a little differently /

It seems weird to apologize (in advance) for plugging myself on my own forum, but here is an idea I worked up recently for a nice optical compressor. Caveat: I have not had a chance to breadboard this, so I cannot say that it works exactly how I THINK it works. But, it's something I have on the backbuner. No values, yet.

Here's the update on this one. I am in the middle of building up the last prototype. The first build up above is an 8-stage phaser based around the old Maestro one. It has switchable stages 2-8. However, after I built that one, I found out that I REALLY LOVED subbing in the univbe caps in four stages. It sounds f'n AWESOME!

The problem is fitting that into the existing 8-stage design proved to be difficult, at least if you want to switch between univibe and phaser modes.

What followed was a freakin hard time of figuring out how to integrate the two ideas. What I found was that it was pretty near impossible to fit 8 switchable stages AND the univbe mod into a 1590BB without making some serious comprises in the layout.

So, this newest version is 6 stages and lets you pick 2, 4, 5 and 6 stages and uses a 4PDT to toggle the phaser and univibe modes in the first four stages. It also might have some cool blinking lights.

Anyway, I'm giving all this detail just to illustrate the process a bit more. LaceSensor mentioned a few weeks ago that transparency in the project development would be welcome, so maybe I should start up a new section of the forum that explains the process I go through in working on things...as a teaching tool? I dunno. Feels weird to say that!

LOL, okay that made my day!

I wish I had more info right now but I just don't. I keep dragging up different ideas I want to check out....from slight design changes all the way through a complete redesign. Sorry. I've built three different prototypes and now I have another possible version on the breadboard.

Also, just to be sure: are you positive it's the buffered output that seems lower and not the non-buffered? That could be easy to mix up. The non-buffered output is the right-most pad on SW1 an buffered is the left-most pad.

The build docs went up few hours ago, so double check your components and values. I don't think there were any changes in component numbering from the schematic published a couple of weeks ago. Also, check transistor orientation.

The wah will be more subtle with the freq pot at max, but there should be a huge range over the travel, so if it's subtle at all settings something is amiss.

The only thing I can think of as a potential problem could be the buffer switch. This was a last minute addition and was the only thing that wasn't tested. Maybe the output is getting loaded down since the SPDT switches from the output only, rather than fully bypassing the buffer/non-buffer. But, I don't see why that would be the case. Hmmm. That would be a pretty easy fix, but do check all the other stuff first before we get to that point.

The John Hollis Flatline is a great optical compressor. It's the basis of one of the 1590A "Baby Boards" I will be releasing, but in the meantime there are a number of PCB, vero and perf laouts of it which you could build right away. Check DIYSB and FSB.

Ross is great, Orange Squeezer is also great.

Also relevant to the interests of this forum - new section: Parts Jar

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?board=22.0