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In the case of the FB, it's pretty safe that 18v will not cause any problems. The mu-amp/SSRP gain stage is self biasing and the input is a simple buffer. I think it will probably give you some increased output, though.

Linky: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond-Manufacturing/1550Z104BK/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsrGrAVj6eTvYBjkuspdYlkWvPntbxihXw%3d

I love the 1550 series...especially the the black powder coated. Total industrial paint job...it will be very hard to scratch.

I've been meaning to build a separate rig for build testing for quite a while. The hope is to leave my prototyping board ready for long-term breadboard action instead of having to dismantle it to test out if my builds work.

Here's the little fella. He'll have bi-polar power supply on the small BB, and there's a 1/8" jack on the enclosure to plug in an audio probe. The larger breadboard is to plug in wires to connect/swap PCB mounted pots out.

Hopefully I will get to wire him up this week!

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Here is a new wiring diagram I put together. I will be referring to this one in future documentation in the hopes of eliminating the redundant diagrams in each project.



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I use CC's for fun, not because they really change the tone very much. It's more of a style thing. Anyone who claims that CC in a 9v pedal makes magic is probably blowing smoke. In an amp, probably yes!

In a FF, I will use them for everything unless I have a pulldown in which case I use carbon film. But, I also almost never use a pulldown in a FF anyway. I have stacks of 1k CC's that I bought a couple of years ago that I will throw in a random build just for the hell of it.

You can still order CCs off Mouser, BTW. They are pricey.

You don't usually see the "N" designation printed on parts...the old AVX caps did, though. It's a very common shorthand in pedal building though, so I've always stuck with it.

Here is a direct link to purchase the 4557:

http://www.dalbani.co.uk/catalogue/product_details.php?id=27344

This has also been added to the project document.

Oh man, I forgot about the Fallout. It's actually a great project. The Red Llama and the Forty Niner on one PCB. Do have have the documentation for it? I will put that one in the extra projects section.

Zombii, Pork Barrel and Road Rages are once again in stock!

The Chunk Chunk, Glitterrattii, Karate Shop (FKA Slap Chop), King of Klones, Poindexter, Snarkdoodle and Yellow Shark boards drop on 04.02.

They're in. Just got them today. I will get ordering available on these new ones up tomorrow. I want to finish the revised documentation on the new stuff first this time....last time it ended up taking me too long to get them done.

Anyway, tomorrow! The new Glitt board is killer, too. about 2/3 the size of the previous design.

I'll throw a template out, too, as soon as time allows.

I got some of that .031 stuff. I received some green and some black. The black is FR4 and is slightly stiffer, and I've used that stuff on a bunch of orders. I had no problems building on it. The green CEM is not as robust. It's better suited for small boards, less than 2" square. There's nothing wrong with it, though. One thing to watch out for if you are using the green stuff: careful with your soldering. If the board gets too hot, it will start to warp a little. Not break, but curl. Anyway, I only did a couple of boards with that stuff, and I'm going to use the rest for faceplates (or sell it off).

If the 1N4001 is smoking then you have one of three problems: the diode is backwards, the power supply is -9v instead of +9v or there is a solder bridge somewhere connecting the 9v supply trace on the board to ground. Assuming it's not #1 or #2, then you should go back an remelt the solder on the board, and check it under a magnifying glass. If you see any suspect areas between traces, scrape them with an Xacto knife of small flat head screwdriver.

You should also take some voltage readings on your IC after doing all that. You should get about 4.5v on pins 1, 2, 5, 6 and 7, 0v on pin 4, 9v on pin8, and something around 3v on pin3. Any one of these that is significantly off is an indicator of an additional problem.

That really blows. PTAP works well. It seems like they'd at least license the code.

Okay, I've dragged this out long enough....it's based off the MP Deep Blue but highly modified. Different input section with gain control, different feedback section that allows you to adjust the tone of the feedback (Shimmer). The two extra boards are plug-in modulation based on two different LFOs. These can also be used for other delays and some non-standard applications that will be coming in future projects.

Lastly, there might be one additional warble mod which I want to try out on the feedback path.

Also...I'm working on something that would let you sync the LFO to other effects...but that's a ways off.

You guys have vivid imaginations, though .