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Keith, the tone knob is supposed to work as a cut in the RR, just as it does in the Carmen Ghia amp that it's modeled after.

If it is still too bright at any setting for you, then you just need to keep upping the values of C5, C6 and C7. There's really no correct value here....this kind of boost is going to handle itself differently in different gear set-ups. This is why I included the switch---to give you two tonal ranges to choose from.

I would socket those caps and try some combinations. Here are some suggestions you might try:

C5--------C6--------C7
4n7        68n          22n
6n8        68n          33n
6n8        82n          15n

At some point, you will find the right balance between bright and dark. You can also use a linear pot instead of audio to change the sweep.

Doug,

The advantage of grounding the fx input in bypass is that it can help eliminate popping when the switch is toggled on and off. By grounding the input, you create a discharge path for any decoupling cap between the guitar signal and the circuit. Pulldown resistors also aid in this. But, not every effect out there has a pulldown, such as the RangeMaster.

It is not a must, but just an alternative. One which I've used successfully for several years, too! Not that at least one of the Tonepad diagrams has a grounded input set-up...although it is a little different than the one I show.

If using an LED in a positive ground effect, simply connect the negative terminal of the battery to a current limiting resistor. The other end of that resistor goes to the negative side of the LED (the flat side). The round side of the LED gets connected to the 3PDT switch in the same spot as a negative ground circuit.

In the Uproar wiring diagram, the switch wiring was simplified to use an On/Off/On SPDT which is easily obtainable (as opposed to an On/On/On). In the wiring set-up in the Uproar document, the two back to back LEDs are always in the signal path to ground. This is pretty much a hack, because when another diode pair of lesser forward voltage is in parallel, the resulting signal will clip mostly through that pair, and only a little through the LEDs.

This alternate wiring uses a DPDT On/On/On and is probably what the actual Riot uses. In this case, each position on the switch results in only a single pair of diodes to ground rather than a mix of pairs in parallel. Note that this is untested!

You will need to wire the two LEDs off board and also R13 and R14 as pictured. It looks a little messy, but it is actually quite easy!

I'll do this right now. Gimmie a few minutes.

I think so. I want to get the Weener Wah finished up so I can release that at the same time, since I've been promising that for a while.

Thanks. Within the next or so the tutorials section will be formally launched with a set of massive articles by mr. jkokura and mr. ian mcdermott! Good stuff is gonna be unleashed.

That's really cool to hear, esp. since I just pulled that value out of thin air 

I use a Tele and my Vox AC4TV for basic testing. When I want to go for full volume, I take it over to the AC15 and dime it.

The nice thing about the AC4 is that it is so bright that if an effect makes it sound even brighter, I know it definitely needs to be tamed way down

You can alter the amount of voltage divide by offsetting the two values...which is pretty much what you will get with a trimpot.

The v3205 claims a wide range of operating voltages (4-8v) but I have my doubts about this. I got really good results at about 7v.

Don't give up! We'll get it there.

Good to hear Kaleb. Thanks to everyone else who tried to help get this sorted out, too!

What do you put on your knobs to prevent shorting?

On those I used some of Barry's 'Pot Condoms' from guitarpcb.

What gear are you using with it?
And, what caps did you replace?

Hmmmm... okay. How about a voltage divider right a pin7 of IC3? You could pull C15, then put it back in with a 10k in series after the positive side. Then at pin7, you put another 10k to ground. This will cut the signal in half feeding into the BBD.

Probably the easiest way to go about this is to pull C15 and put in two temporary wires (or a socket) the test the voltage diver out on the breadboard.

Cool beans. What's goin on there with that momentary switch...is it a relay?

Each knob is a blend. The fourth one dials in the clean signal, so you can mix whatever amount of clean and octave you want.