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It's only necessary if you think it is. If you have a 390k and 420k that measure close to the dot, then you are already within 1% tolerance of the actual value indicated.

YouTube is now enabled in forum posts via an icon on the list above smileys. Please feel free to embed RELEVANT videos....anything about stompboxes or your own demos, etc. Not 15 keyboard cat videos.

And, definitely nothing like this!

Please post an close-up pic of your led and switch wiring.

Gotcha. Thanks. I'll see about getting it built up once I've got some more orders out.

Since he has them grouped with the Panasonics, it's a fair guess that they are about the same size and can be subbed without issue.

For caps valued at pF, you can do one of three types: ceramic, silver mica or film. Ceramic are the cheapest, mica are the most expensive. What's the difference? Very little! Ceramic will generally have a tiny bit more noise. Micas are usually considered a little more "hi-fi""....but that's subjective.

In the case of the Snack Shack, the two pF caps are used for smoothing out some of that distortion to kinda lop off a bit of its squarewave. My preference for that type of thing is usually ceramic...not because I've done some sorta scientific testing on its benefits, but rather that's what I have a lot of! In fact, just about the only time I use Mica is for something totally different: in the feedback loop of an op-amp, such as the Tube Screamer, et. al.

Film would be fine too here...but I don't think there is any added advantage. So, I would recommend just using ceramics.

Thanks for the insightful post, EndlessOcean. I can understand your frustration with feeling a bit in the dark in terms of what kinds of parts to order, etc. The lack of comprehensive info in some of the documentation has a lot to do with how madbeanpedals started. It was more of a project palace for folks who already had some experience in building and buying parts, so I did not really put forth the effort to make these things clear.

But now, a couple of years on, there are many new builders that are coming here first, rather than migrating from other places like BYOC, diystompboxes, etc. So, there is a definite gap to be crossed for absolute beginners to those with a few builds under their belts.

Anyway, I am trying to address this more clearly with the documentation I've been doing for releases over the last 3 - 4 months, and I think it has helped. But, there is still a lot of older documentation that needs to be brought up to the current standard. And some projects, like the Snack Shack, will be re-tooled to allow different lead spacings of the myriad of caps you can get. This isn't practical for all of the projects, but ones with low part counts that have a certain "mojo" vibe about them are pretty easy to do this way.

Anyway, I don't have much hope for doing color coded schematics, but this could still be addressed by marking what cap type is appropriate in the BOM. It would be great if I could do fully linked bills of materials, but that is a real time sucker on my end and would come at the expense of other more critical responsibilities. But, a happy medium can be found, I think, and your post is helpful in directing my efforts.

Thanks for the feedback, and welcome to the forum!

So you did not do the FET switching....it looks like some folks had trouble with that. How did you do the boost portion on your clone, then?

Actually, in the case of the Snack Shack, I don't suggest the Topmay. You will want to use either the Panasonics or get some axial caps. C1 and C5 can be axial (like they are pictured in the layout) or radial--if you bend the leads a bit. C4 and C6 should be axial electrolytic.

Here's what you need:
Axial electrolytic: http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=184

Looks like he's out of the 10uF but has the 47uF! You could probably get one at Radio Shack, though. If you run into trouble  finding it, let me know.

These should work for the space allotted. At worst you might have to bend the leads just a little.
C1: http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=517
C5: http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=518

Why is there only one wire going to the LED.  I can't get the LED to work on mine, is this because I used both wires into the two holes?

Instead of attaching wires to both leads on the LED and then running another wire from the SW pad to the 3PDT, he just attached the negative end of the LED directly to the 3PDT.

Nice work, Jackbart! But, you say your build was a lot darker sounding than the one you tried in the store? I'm curious about that.

Most needed resistors:

100R
220R
1k
2k2
4k7
8k2
10k
12k
15k
20k
22k
47k
68k
100k
150k
220k
470k
1M
2M2
10M

Most needed film caps:
1n
2n2
3n9
4n7
6n8
10n
15n
22n
47n
68n
100n
220n
1uF

Most needed ceramics:
47pF
100pF
220pF
470pF

Most needed electrolytic:
1uF
2u2
4u7
10uF
47uF
100uF

You could cut this list down a bit more, even. But these values will cover a lot of effects.

I think this with maybe a few modifications here and there. I'll tinker around with it.

Okay not the best sound quality, but you are ripping it to shreds man....nice axing.

200 carbon film from Mouser costs $2.80. 200 Metal Film costs $4.00.

I buy at least one pack of some resistor value every time I order from Mouser. And, since I do a few dozen orders a year, it stacks up!

I DO think the package deals on caps form Smallbear are very good....buying a bag of 100 here and there. The Topmay or Panasonics.

Sockets and trimpots: Tayda Electronics. Good deals there.

Electrolytic/ceramic/film caps, op-amps, transistors, diodes: Mouser.

I use mostly miniature electrolytic caps now. They used to be made by Xicon, but now by Lelon. Maybe they are a division of Xicon because they are the exact same except for the company logo. Any, I prefer the tiny ones...they are only 5-6mm tall, whereas regular electrolytic caps are 11mm.

mini: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lelon/SS100M1EBK-0505P/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22fOIMi63Cj6pMjznIzIEUe4%3d
maxi: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lelon/REA100M1EBK-0511P/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22Z8b58wL7NwvZlIRI187dww%3d

Pots: smallbear. Best deal there. You know how if you order 10 of a pot you get a discount? They don't have to be the same value! If you order 5 10k and 5 50ks you get the 10 pot discount.

I also usually order SDPT switches from SB, but Mouser has them too.

This new Trail of Dead rekkid is rockin my balls off! A return to the Tags and Code era, but definitely updated sonically.