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Awesome! I'm glad you like it.

This is definitely one of those projects where you can dig in and modify to your hearts content. It could also serve as a good learning tool for those who would like to experiment with different component types, values, etc. You could even through in some clipping diodes if you want. I kinda hoped it to be a bit "open source".

Some general thoughts:

The RR is a monster gainiac, so it could be that the transistors you are using simply have to much gain themselves. You could try replacing them with 2n5457 or subbing in different J201s (socket the positions on the board).

Does the oscillation change pitch when you reduce the volume knob on your guitar, as well? If so, increase R2 to something more like 220k. Although you should not require a decoupling cap at the input of the circuit, you could try testing one temporarily to see if that solves the problem. Simply put a 22 or 47n cap in place of the 68k (or 220k) might do it. Or, perhaps raising the input impedance by using 2M2 in place of the 1M pulldown resistor.

Increase R3 to 4k7 to further reduce gain.

Try dialing down the bias on T1...4.5v is a general rule, not absolute.

One of these things (or two) will likely solve the problem,

Also, you could try reducing the vol pot to 10k, too!

You could always look up the datasheet for the VTL5C1 and get the nominal dark/light resistance. There's a lot of interesting info in the datasheet, and it covers just about all the Vactrols they make.

I only used the 10mm cause it looked cool...even a 3mm would probably work. And, I pulled my photocell out of the bag without bothering to check any spec on it. I did this on purpose to see if the result was good without worrying about the specs. It was

The Peppermill is worth a look. You could add a stock TMB tone control and a recovery stage after it to get something close to what you are describing, Mike.

If you have enough diodes, try two 1n270s in series per side. You'll get a little more volume out of it and still retain the sustain and texture of that diode type.

I would mark the positions of your trimpots with a sharpie and start playing with them. IIRC, the 1st trimpot had the most effect in terms of adjusting the overall tone/balls on this thing.

Vox AC15, TCL2272, BAT41. Also sounds good with no diodes for about the first 2/3 of the gain pot.

Reverse log also works well in circuits where the gain is set up like an attenuator, like the Big Muff, for example. Also, you can use them in place of the linear pot in the gain control of a fuzz Face.

one thing about the build documents that I really like is most of the new docs have the BOM and the parts layout all on one page. if at all possible please keep this up. I usually print just the pages I need to save paper, and it saves alot looking around too.

Yep, that was on purpose. I try to keep to one page per phase of building. I am giving the schematics a full page though because some people, like me, never know where their glasses are.

Okay, video and audio demos is something else that needs to happen ASAP. I totally agree with that. Ideally, I would like to get them done for everything. The biggest hold-up is actually trying to stay current with orders.....it's the thing I worry most about. Just this last week I had more orders in a seven day period than ever before. So, it pushes everything else back. Hell, I've had my new CNC sitting in my dining room for 2 months and I haven't even used it yet!

Also, I'd like to improve my responsiveness with email and PM's. That's another thing that gets de-prioritized when things are cookin'.

Josh,

I'm well aware of the Klon klones that have been floating around recently. In the last month there has been an uptick, actually. I spend at least some time once a week checking out stuff like this. I don't like it, but I also try to remain fair about it. All I can do is say "I don't endorse that". I don't want to be the Clone Police, after all. I have a certain ethic about DIY that is probably a little abstract, and I can understand if others might think it's total BS. But, I'm comfortable with it

And, in my mind, there's a difference between selling your work for a fair and reasonable price and then there's profiteering. At least in one case someone had a Klon clone for sale for more than the original unit sold for!! I mean, come on....

One another note, I have been working with someone recently who is running classes for pedal building and providing an "educator's discount" to help him get started...that's the kind of thing I really like to see happening.

Anyway, you are right on target in terms of the development of projects from this point forward. There will be very few straight clone projects in the future. While it was a good jumping off point for getting things started, I'm much more interested in exploring new designs, or re-tooling classics. I also plan on (hopefully) developing some DIY projects that offer real-time control over multiple effects. That's the kind of thing that will allow people to develop really unique sounds and techniques!

Plugging an 18v into it could have burned up the Zener protection diode or the charge pump. The TC1044/ICL7660 can accept up to 10v. Beyond that it won't work...and could be damaged. The Zener diode protection is actually a little over-rated...it's 12v, I think.

However, I've heard that those pumps can take 12v without a problem. FrequencyCentral, who designs a lot of sub-mini tube amps, uses a 12v input on a charge pump and then bumps it up to 70v for his tubes.

I'm pretty sure this is why Finnegan uses the weirdo DC plug on the Klon....so that you can only use his supplied wall wart and not plug in 18v to the thing and destroy it.

In this case, using a log taper for the gain control will result in very little change of the first 3/4 of the turn of the pot and end in a massive volume change in the last 1/4. Using a reverse audio taper negates that by putting the largest part of the resistance where it has the least effect, i.e. the very beginning of the sweep. The last half of the sweep will be more linear, which means it gain won't bunch up at the end, and you can make more subtle changes with it.

My totally non-scientific explanation of the principle behind it is that the human brain is instinctively wired to recognize large changes in volume rapidly as a defense mechanism. So, we gotta make our pots behave in a way to balance that out.

Wohoo!

Okay, this information is terrific. Here's what I gathered:

Clean the website up, and populate or remove unused stuff.
Put some actual tutorials on the site.
Change Builds to Photo Gallery.
Notate any changes or mods I make to the designs in the documentation.
Put the drilling templates on the site rather than in the documents.
Don't put strict deadlines on the new Kinkerbocker releases (LOL).
Layouts for mojo parts only can be frustrating.
Add some helpful info on part sourcing.
Maybe drop the onboard LED stuff.
Make the wiring diagrams more illustrative in terms of jacks, etc.

I agree with pretty much everything here. The website has been left half-done for too long. The lack of pages with content is unprofessional and it does bother me. I've held off on devoting time to it mainly because I want to completely re-design the site and streamline it. I'd like to create an actual store front and make that the home page. A new store front would also allow me to offer other things besides PCBs, like maybe some parts or rarities, etc. I also want to add a "customer/user" area where people can put info about themselves or pictures of their work. Also, I really want to do a monthly "featured builder" on the site. Much of the work here is outstanding and it's a shame for it to be found only in the forum.

The lack of tutorials is definitely very present in my mind. I have wanted to do a complete and thorough tutorial on making/building pedals for quite some time, with HD video and all that. So, maybe it is time to prioritize that for this Spring.

I definitely do want to bring all the documentation into the current form, and I absolutely will. I can change the jacks illustration easy enough.

I'll fix up the layouts for some of the mojo oriented boards so that standard spaced caps can be used. I have done this for a few, but not all.

Lastly, on the release dates. I try to put at least some kind of info there because about 1/4 of the emails I get are "when will such and such be ready". It doesn't bother me, but I guess that's my way of trying to preempt some of those emails.

Sterling work though.  I don't understand how you can make money at the price point you set, but I hope you make a fuckton.  

Everyone in my immediate family/friends says I need to charge more, ha ha. But, I'm doing all right. Most of what I made last year went right back into MBP in one way or another. I have increased prices on a couple of occasions, but they are usually accompanied by reductions to other PCBs at the same time.

Thanks again guys. This is very helpful.

But, this thread isn't over, so please anyone else chime in. I can take it!