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The Glitterrattii has 5mm spacing for the caps. This will accomodate a variety of different types (radial, not axial).

From your link, any of those Panasonic ECQ would be fine, or the WIMA MKP2.

For D3, 1n4004 or 7 will do the same job. This is for reverse polarity protection in case you somehow plugged in a -9v instead of +9v adaptor.

Those were exactly my findings as well: the filter thing was pretty useless as well as the limit mod (as configured). I think the way I set it up in the DP is more interesting, with a variable resistor in series with one of the diodes.

Also, without any diodes it sounds amazing!

Hmm. Can we see a pic of how you have it wired? I mean, the board and 3pdt?

If you use 30k on both, then its okay. These act as voltage dividers so it's important that both are approximately the same value. If one were significantly less, then Vb will not be the proper voltage which will throw everything off.

I did this very thing over the weekend. I was building up a different project that needed two 10ks. I accidentally used 1k for one of the resistors and the result was improper voltages and a terrible intermittent sound.

Seconded. LED must be wired backwards.

Very nice! I would like to see a pig on the front....but that's just me

Looks awesome!

They are definitely different sounding. the clean boost feature on the Aristocrat is fine, in its own way. But, it does not have the same character as a Sunking used as a clean boost. IMO, I think the SK is probably more dynamic and has more character. IOW, it has more coloratrion. But, it's a good color, as Jacob mentioned.

For the Ari---I generally use the clean boost on the first channel to slam the front end of the second channel when I want a little more sizzle out of it.

Five new projects have been released!

Deadpool - Os Mutantes Fuzz
Spackler - Demeter Fat Control
Sprout - Colorsound One Knob Fuzz
Retrograde - Tycobrahe Octavia
Pepper Spray - Interfax Harmonic Percolator

And, the Quasar has been updated with a new layout that allows you to build either the RC or AC boost on one board.

About half of the documents are up now, and the other half will be available tomorrow!

Also, some pictures of the PCBs have been added. There are still many to add, but it's a start

Double check that you indeed have 27k on both R25 and R26.
Look for tiny solder bridges....use a magnifying glass if you have one. I use one all the time.
Is either IC1 or IC2 hot when you touch it?

100kB for the gain. It's used in the second stage. So, instead of that 100k resistor in the feedback loop, it's a 10k resistor in series with the 100kB pot.

This one is in the bag. Sounds good! The gain control worked out well....it adds enough versatility between unity and boost to warrant its inclusion.

The current board is a little too big for a 1590A, though. Since I only plan to offer one version, what's good for everyone? One knob or two?

Also, I think this one is probably best as true bypass. Does anyone care about being able to use it as buffered bypass?

Those are usually 1024 stages.

But, a slapback echo might be a good use. I don't know of a project off the top of my head that uses one.

Maybe try a search on DIYSB. I bet someone has found a use for the MN3002 there.

I should take a look at the gate function. Let me see how it could be implemented.

The stock unit used 5mm, IIRC. Either should be okay.

In this case, the square marking is negative on the board, although that is reverse of what it should be. I need to update that image to make the square marking positive!