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Actually, I've got a question of my own. Dan, what's the difference between wiring the LED like you just described versus wiring it to the LED pads on the PCB, and wiring the switch to the PCB as well? Is there a particular benefit to using the method you described?

You could use a bezel for your LEDs so they'll stay exactly where you want them.

C is a reverse audio taper. Small Bear doesn't seem to have too many values for that, but to be fair I didn't look that hard - you should definitely double check.

I'm by no means an expert, but I'm pretty sure that 5 mm is the standard size. 3 mm LEDs tend to get used more for clipping diodes (anyone more experienced, feel free to correct me if I'm wrong). The resistors for the LEDs are part of the circuit, so you don't have to add anything extra. Get whatever colors make you happy.

As far as mounting, that's a matter of personal preference. If you're using PCB-mounted pots, then those will suspend the board once mounted in the enclosure. If you're not, the stiffness of the wires should hold the board in place. I use Small Bear's #24 pre-bond wire, and I know some of the other folks here do as well. They might have some more advice, too.

I really like these. Any chance you took a picture of an enclosure you tried this on? I'd be really curious to see how that looks.

The wires are smallbear's amazing ***amazing*** pre-bond 24awg hookup wire.

Hey, that's exactly the wire I bought for the builds I'm working on now. I'll have to try it for myself.

Hope things calm down for you and yours soon - I don't have an order waiting, but I don't think anyone would fault you for taking some time to deal with real life! Be well.

After looking at this and your other builds, I have to say that these are some amazing builds. What's the process of stamping those copper plates like?

Also, can I ask how you got your wires to hold such crisp right angles? It's a work of art in there!