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Sorry for the necrothread revival.  Anyone got any kicking around?

Willy.

I found one at a garage sale a couple of years ago for $20.  After a battery replacement/clip installation and purchase of a step down transformer we were good to go.

I didn't like the feel of the buttons - I felt like I was getting callouses from all the pressing with minimal give.  It sounded great for the most part.

Anyway, I captured it into my Mooer Preamp Live with a couple of different settings (Nuno, Vernon) and sold it for AUD$400.  I probably should have kept it just because it's such a classic piece of gear, or I should have held out for more money (it didn't shift at $600), but I doubt I'll ever get another one - I just don't need it, and I don't think I'll ever find one at that price again, lol.

As it is I never used the capture, preferring my Blackstar HT-Dual capture in the MPL (which died later anyway).

There's a jfet vero version lying around on the tagboard forums.  Maybe I'll build that one day, but there are plenty of other options that do what the MP1 does just as good if not better.

I gave you a bit of grief about these in your original post last year or whenever it was, but I'm big enough to say that these look great.  Definitely interested in a couple.

How are you getting such good colours on a black enclosure?  I haven't found Tayda's colour registration to be super sharp when going over a white base the same shape as the top image.  They never really get the two lined up properly.

3 is a decent first step into the 3D/FPS style world, still retains some of the bigger RPG mechanics—it's almost Elder Scrolls Oblivion but in the post apocalypse. Like how I feel with most Bethesda-developed titles, LOTS of stuff, some of it really neat and moving, a bit disjointed narratively, and a bit too "hallway" in some parts.

I feel like Fallout 3 and on are more like Oblivion reskins than anything else.

I'm mildly concerned about this for my own projects: I have a buffer of 2mm on each side for the Sardine Tin v.3 meant for a 1590N1— measured based on the Hammond CAD drawings. I mean, I'd feel bad for someone who buys a board then goes and orders something that's a "125B," and then come to find it doesn't fit. And judging by the fitment of that board in a C65, I don't think it will ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

And then you have whatever clones Tayda are selling that have thicker walls and tops too.  You're flat out getting a washer and nut onto a 9mm pot with a painted/stickered/poweredcoated Tayda 125b.

My options to Australia are UPS and DHL, both 2-4 day delivery.  DHL has been shocking lately, it gets to Australia overnight and then spends a week in the system before I get it.  Going to try UPS next time.  I think I've used them before but I can't remember.

So I saw a bloke on FB with a bunch of superstrat projects up for sale, and saw a Kramer Striker in the listing.  I asked what he was after and if he'd trade, pointed to the pedals I had up for sale, and he agreed.  After sending photos of the packaging and tracking numbers, we put our respective packages in the mail (1000k+ away from each other) at the same time.

I got this for my Reactor, Hellboy, and a Ly-Rock Ceres clone.  It's complete other than cavity covers and neckplate.  One of the tone pots is knackered and won't turn, and the frets need replacing or a good hard sand but otherwise it's in really good nick.

Willy.

Thanks, and yeah, it's just the opacity slider up the top.  I also did this with my Clone of Tones Deluxe.

Gudday all.  I pulled my initial Hellboy build apart a while ago as there was some squealing going on occasionally, probably due to having two high gain vero circuits sandwiched next to each other in the one 1590DD.  I reclaimed and filled that box with just the Seventh Heaven, and finally got around to boxing up the Black Forest.

Again, this is a tayda drilled, powdercoated, and UV printed enclosure.  It's their gloss black powdercoat, but only white printed.  Interestingly, you can change up the opacity in the white layer and this is how I did the faded forest graphics.

When setting out the UV print template I forgot about the clearance needed for a 2dpt so the "Width" control has been hardwired
and replaced with a dummy pot to fill the hole.  I'd actually meant to put gain/vol/width on the second row to get that clearance from the jacks, but I forgot and there you go...

I promise to get some knobs shortly.

Willy.

I was going to put a set of those in my Phat Boy build but decided against it based on their size, lol.

The Revv G4.

Gudday all.  This is Red Rocket, using Jimilee's Red Rocker PCB.  We had a few issues at first but found out it was a dud 20k resistor in the power section (Jimi had been kind enough to send his voltages through and suggest where to look).  Once that was fixed, we were good to go.

This would have to be in my top 5 drives, if not top 3.  I messed up and once again got the volume and drive labels swapped in my print template.  I'll get knobs on it sometime, but I'll wait until I need to do another order.  I may have to get another pcb off Jimi too...

Willy.

But apparently the Prepress dept can't/won't(?) toggle layer visibility, because I got an alert saying there's "no rdg_white" in my file. I went back to the original print-ready PDF, toggled the layer visibility, saved-as, then got it resubmitted. Everything seems to be good, since my whole order is now marked shipped and I have a tracking #

Just something else to tick to box on when ordering from them.

I think it pretty much has to be absolutely ready to go with no effort other than inserting the enclosure and pressing "print" at their end.

My last order actually went without a hitch as far as print formatting goes, although I did end up with an extra blank gloss black 125b enclosure though.  No idea how I did that or what I was thinking.

Yeah, I have the pcbs/veros scaled out to the right size for placement purposes normally, but didn't think to in this case for some reason.

Gudday all.  I'm currently on another pedal finishing run now that my tayda order arrived.  This is is Bassick, using Brenja's Bass Driver 3.1 PCB he sold me 3 years ago (sorry mate, just getting around to it now).

I had an issue getting the fet switching to work, (it just powered up into "on" and wouldn't bypass) so I went back to the 2.0 docs that I used in my Phat Boy build and wired it for a 3pdt.  This took a couple of hours as I couldn't get it to work.  Don't know what I finally did right but the wiring I finally did was identical to the docs - but my initial identical wiring (also identical to the docs) didn't work and it just gave a bypassed signal. Anyway...

While my tayda drill template had all the right distances, I didn't place it high up enough in the enclosure and I had to really jam the 3pdt and output 1/4 jack in tight up against the pcb.  The pcb was actually extending into the hole.  Anway....

All things being equal, I'm glad I stuck with trying to get it all to work and fit.  In the end after all that there's something weird going on with the level pot that I sorted by really tightening it down - while it was wobbling the sound cut out unless I lent on it a certain way.  This isn't an ideal solution but there's no way I'm pulling this apart to deal with it now.

Willy.