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Can you hear the relay make any noise when you hit the footswitch? I can hear my relay engage if the pedal case is open. That would seem to be a easy thing to do in order to determine if the relay is working at all.

Here is the layout on vero in case anyone wants it.

http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2013/04/escobedo-duende-jfet-jhs-minibomb.html

I ordered the Octagon this weekend during their sale. All of a sudden everyone started posting about this project and then they had a sale...what was I to do?

BuGG even made a custom eeprom for me (what a guy). Here is to SMD/FV-1/patch experimentation!

I'll post my build thread when I get al my parts (I'm planning on adding the ground switch to pin 13 of the fv1 to access the internal patches; I also want to install a rotary switch 1p8t for patch selection; and maybe, just maybe I will add that expression jack I saw in another thread).

OK, I think I understand what Willybomb is saying to do and it makes sense to me. Thanks!

But, do I need to do this for circuits that already have power decoupling as part of their design (like the VFE pedal which has its own power filtering)? I also think the fatpants has some power filtering if I read c6 and r7 on the schematic right; however the values are much lower than Willybomb's recommended 100r & 100uf (fatpants jr r7=22r and c6=47uf). Is this a sufficient amount of power decoupling?

I'm building a multi effect pedal comprised of: vfe pale horse, fat pants jr, th-customs nope relay, perfboard buffer circuit.

Do I need to do anything special to reliably power it besides running v+ to each effect (while avoiding making ground loops)?

Also would including a 9v battery option be a problem (besides battery life and ecological concerns)?

For my 10th pedal build I am making a dual effect pedal for a friend of mine. It will be a vfe pale horse and a fat pants jr. I have made both before and love them. I am also going to include an effects order switcher in the pedal. I also want to include a switchable buffer (likely a perfboarded jhs little black buffer) in the circuit somewhere.

The question at hand is where should I put the switchable buffer? Since I am making the effect order switchable, I am thinking it should be directly attached, via dpdt slider switch, to either the input or output jack.

Any wisdom as to placement preference and how it might or might not affect the effect would be appreciated. Also, I am open to other buffer circuits if you have one you like better than the jhs one.

Thanks,
-Sarde

I'm interested in more knowledge on the subject. I have been thinking about this ever since I made my VFE Pale Horse pedal. I love the relay switch, and I like the ability to do momentary also.

Brian, I am still hoping that the softie will still go to production and that will satiate my desires in relay switching.
Props to Coda effects for their work on this front for the DIY community.

I use powerpoint as well. I already have it and i don't need to learn anything else. Then again I'm lazy and creatively dull.

Thanks for the advice and for the links. Ill find an insulated jack.

I see the total recall (DMM) calls, in the build doc, for using the ehx 24v wall wart. Correct me if I'm wrong but that is a 2.5mm plug not the standard boss 2.1mm plug most pedals use.
So, I need a 2.5mm dc jack, not a 2.1mm?

Now, I might be wrong, but with the pedal being positive ground, if I used a metal bodied dc jack that would ground the negative sleeve to the enclosure; which would be bad since the audio jacks ground plane contacts the enclosure then connect to the board, which is positive ground; thus, connecting the positive and negative together. So, do I need a plastic bodied 2.5mm dc power jack?

Sorry for the dumb question; but I want to be sure I don't blow everything up.

-Sarde

When are these going to go on sale? It says April 29th and I've been waiting all day and they are not up yet? I even checked at midnight last night; because I was so excited. Not complaining, I just have an itch for some new awesome builds.

-Sarde

Its not arduino and it is relay switching, but these DIY options should be quiet. Each have benefits and drawbacks for your purposes.

Option 1 - Epic looper from JMK/THCustom (http://jmkpcbs.com/product/epic-bypass-looper-kit/). JMK also has an expansion board for a 7segment display for the bank number.

Option 2 - BYOC Super 8 (https://buildyourownclone.com/products/super8) This has a buffered and a non buffered input plus midi capability.

Hope this helps,
-Sarde

I use Blinggasm brand clear laser waterslide from Amazon. But the decal paper reacts to spray clear coats and crinkles up (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=24961.0). I learned this the hard way. But if you put a light coat of shellac on the decal before clear coating then there are no problems.

Sarde did you clearcoat the pedal before applying the decal?  I painted, then one layer of clear, then decal over that last night without problems, but I'm thinking about taking the initial clearcoat out of the equation so there's no contact with the decal whatsoever.  So I'd be doing the following: paint, decal with shellac already applied, then a few coats of clear.  What do you think?

I apply my decal to a painted enclosure with no top coat. I figure I will be applying a clear coat anyway to why put it underneath. I am lazy and use pre-painted enclosure from tayda; but if you are painting your own as long as you let it dry throughly there should be no issues. As others have noted it appears to be acetone of some other ingredient in aerosolized clear coats that causes cracking with this particular brand of waterslide paper. BTW, I am using the laser clear decal paper.

My first few pedals came out cracked until i wiped on a thin coat of bullseye shellac to the decal before clear coating. Since then I have had no issues.

FYI, my process is laser print decal, shellac decal, let dry, apply decal to enclosure, let dry, as many clear coats as I want. Since you are painting your own enclosures as long as the paint coat is dry by the time you apply the shellaced decal you should be good to go. Hope that helps.

I have the same decal paper. I also had severe cracking issues using rustoleum spray lacquer clear on it. I solved the problem by wiping on a thin coat of shellac (from home depot) on the printed decal paper, letting it dry, and then applying the decal to my pedals and final coating the pedal (with the same rattle can of rustoleum lacquer). It solved the problem for me.