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The blend pot is a really cool idea too, I've never thought of that before.

Cool, I'm glad it worked out for u.

What are the hfe readings on the BC550B that you have in Q1 and Q2?

It sounds like what you want is a Germanium Boy type pedal.  To implement a rotary switch you would need a 1P12T (one pole with twelve throws) rotary switch.  C1 would always be in the circuit.  Then you need to decide how many other tonal options you want.  You could have up to 11 capacitors to add in parallel but that is prob overkill.  I would choose 3-5 other values.  

For the mod:
Run a wire from the positive ("In") pad of where C2 is on the board, to the pole of the switch.  The lugs are normally numbered but you can test with a DMM for continuity.  Leave the first position or throw open, nothing is attached and this just leaves C1 acting alone.  Then take the capacitors that you ordered and from the smallest value to largest solder one leg (if polarized, then use the positive leg) to each subsequent throw starting with the second throw on the switch.  Once you have every capacitor attached then solder all the legs of the opposite side together (if any caps are polarized then this is the negative side) and finally connect them to a single wire.  Run this wire to the either the negative pad of C2 or the "M" pad, it shouldn't matter which one.  Lastly, I do not think it is necessary but you could solder a wire from the first throw to where all the caps connect together, just for redundancy.  

If this doesn't make sense to you I can draw a picture.

Now you have position (throw) 1 of switch = C1
                    position 2 = C1 + C2(a)    (a) denotes C2's value that you have placed in throw 2
                    position 3 = C1 + C2(b)     where (b) denotes the value in throw 3 and so on
                    position 4 = C1 + C2(c)  etc.

-Dan

I like those knobs a lot, simple but nice

Those graphics are awesome!

I would really love to do a sub-mini tube amp as a warm up to a kit amp project...

Yea that'd be awesome.  I'm guessin itd fit in a wah shell if it fits a 125b right?  Thanks!

Here is a pic of a DC Jack I found posted by someone on the forum.  Forget who it was sorry for jacking it.  I labeled which terminal is which to make the above diagram easier to understand and put to work.



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@jkokura
Thanks for looking over my diagram.  There was error in the way I wired the DC Jack, but not what you mention.  I got my TRS lugs confused going off of memory, but have attached a new diagram that is correct.

I think your method will work just fine, but so does the updated one I posted.  I mean no disrespect here but if you take a look at the wiring diagrams for any of the BYOC kits this is the same method they use and I learned it from them and use it in all my builds.  Never had any problems.  The difference is negligible really.

I think the only real advantage of the method I showed above, over the one you mention is when the DC Jack is not close in location to the In Jack.  It might be next to the Out Jack or on the top of the enclosure when the in/out jacks are on the sides.  And in those cases running one wire of the battery snap in a completely different direction/location than the other could be messy and impact the placement of the battery to a less than ideal/typical area.

I think you were referring to Madbean's method of wiring, which I have never used but I'm sure works perfectly as well.  I think I heard/read a while back that Madbean's method accomplishes some extra grounding protection and that's probably a good thing.  More than one way to skin a cat...it's always good to know other methods.

-Dan

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The wiper is just another name for Lug 2 of any pot and you don't need to worry about that for purposes of this build anyways, but it's good to learn new things.  I made a diagram in DIY layout creator for you.  I suggest you read my above instructions while looking at the diagram to fully understand where each connection is being made.

I put the solder pads on the board in generally the same location as where they should be on your board.  But you never said which board you were using, the one with the buffer or without?  I also used the same color coding method as in the layout from tonepad.

B/c the layout software doesn't have an image for dc jacks or battery snaps I had to make do with other symbols but I think you should be able to understand whats going on.

The image is attached

(edited to remove the image, use the one a few posts below)

Did you build the standard board or the one with the buffer?  Here is a link to the layout for the standard one http://www.tonepad.com/getFile.asp?id=114  You will wire it like any other true bypass pedal.  Normally the tricky part of a wah is that Lug 1 of the wah pot goes to output, but on this board they have an out pad so it isn't even an issue.  If you aren't using an led, then all you need is a DPDT.

The tip of the in jack goes to lug 1.  the in pad on the board goes to lug 2. lug 3 gets connected to ground this is the sleeve of the in jack.  The out pad on the board goes to lug 4.  lug 5 goes to the tip on the out jack.  there is a jumper between lug 1 and lug 6.

You want to run a second wire from the sleeve of the in jack to the ground pad on the board, you can do the same for the out jack but don't have to.  A wire goes from the ring of the in jack to the negative terminal for the dc jack, battery snap negative also connects to this terminal on the dc jack.  Depending on which jack you ordered the positive terminals may be switched around, but one terminal will be for the battery snap positive and the other terminal goes to the 9v in on the board.

If that doesn't make sense lemme know and i can send you an image, or if you want to use an led I can tell you how to do that also.  

No I don't, I wish I had a verified schem cuz I could have figured it out.  The only info I have are some posts from freestompboxes.  The link is here http://freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=6922 and then listed under "mods" is where I found the info.  I hope its ok to copy and paste the posts from there...

this was in response to an incorrect schematic someone else posted:

"by kusi » 28 Sep 2007, 07:07
hi,

this is NOT the original Mosferatu! the original one is very similary to the ZD, the most difference is the Tone-stack (ts-like(220E +270n) with LP (1k/270nF) in front of it) symmetrical clipping in FB-loop (2n7000 + 1n34)
thats it...

regars, ksui"

and this comment:

"by JHS » 28 Jul 2007, 05:06
The Mosferatu is a AMZ SoS-clone with a few altered values and MOSFETS instead of the diodes. The PCB for the Mosfertau and the part layout is the same on the ZD.

I think the only difference between those two is the clipping section and myabe a few part values.

JHS"

Looking at your version 4 layout...To me it sounds like 1n34 instead of BAT41 diodes and omit D2. Either jumper the pads for D2 or maybe install D1 diagonally from the round pad in D1 to square pad in D2 with stripe (sorry dont remember if thats cathode or anode at the moment) going to the square pad and then you wouldn't need a jumper?  I am lost as to what changes to make to the tone-stack (especially what 220E is) and the Low Pass filter.

I was guessing that the IC may also be different but I can always just try different ones.  And that maybe the gain pot would be a 1Meg but I could easily try that too.

Thanks,
Dan

I want to build a mosferatu clone, what components would I need to sub alternate values for?

thanks,

Dan