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I've had a couple of disappointments with pedalpartsplus, don't get me wrong, the quality is great but as we all know, colors can be a little "off" sometimes. I was just thinking maybe we could post pictures of our colored enclosures. I realise most of them shows up in the build reports but this could be sort of a database.

18 karat gold:


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I'm sourcing parts and planning to buil a litte 3 in one pedal including a neovibe. The documentation on the neovibe aren't as easy to follow as madbeans documents and I'm rusre I will post some questions here later. but first things first:

How would I power it? The documentation says 14-20VAC or 18-24VDC, Will the Road-rage do the job? And allso, can anyone explain why there are 2 power-pads on the neovibe-board?

A little different buildreport this time. I dislocated my shoulder 3 years ago while training Brazilian jiu jitsu and tore up my Articular capsule. Yesterday I had my second surgery and hopefully it will be as good as new this time! Won't be able to solder or drill for some time now. But since I will be home from work for 3 months now I gonna start planning my future builds! Here's a short video from the inside of my shoulder 

Finished this baby today, man am I happy about how it turned out. There are absolutely NO pop when I flip either switch!

silicon transistors are BC109
Germanium's are CV7112

Left switch is for Q1
Right switch is For Q2 and the two Bias-controls. Panel-knob is for Germanium and the inside trimpot is for silicon.

Posted a "mangler thoughts"-thread under tech help a couple of weeks ago where is presented my Idea about toggle-switches for both transistors and the trimpot in a mangler.. Had some time to test my idea and I'm happy to say it sure will work! I tested it with CV112's and BC109. There were not that much popping when I switched between the two either! Both bias-pots works fine but the main problem now will bee to source a couple of good BC108 or BC109 that have good gains or whatever (don't really understand all that... but I'm learning).

Will post more pics when I'm ready. Haven't drilled holes for jacks, DC and possibly a led yet. Will probably wait to finish this one until I get some shielded cable I just bought from eBay.

I thought I would run this by you guys and get your point of view. I'm about to build me a new sweet mangler equipped with NPN transistors. But I all so want to build a Silicon fuzz pretty soon, so maybe I should combine the two?

In an ideal scenario this would be the specs:
The box would have both internal and external bias control ( so three knobs on the outside )
2 switches:
one for switching Q1 between a BC108 and OC140      ( 3PDT)
one for switching Q2 between BC108(+internal bias) and OC140(+external bias)  (4PDT)

I made a terrible job in photoshop to illustrate my thoughts. I might to this fuzz on turretboard so "bias 1 on board" (as it says in the picture) actually means bias 1 on the schematics.

I know a saw a guide somewhere on how to switch transistors with just a DPDT switch and in that guide i remember C, B, or E on the transistor being connected like in my picture. I just cant remember witch one.

Would this wiring cause lots of popping when I switch between transistors? And offcourse... Would this work?

Started this last night and finished it this morning. Got 2 jack deville Click-Less bypass kits on sale a couple of months ago and this my first build using one of them.

Finally finished my Turretboard Cherrybomb. Wrapped the enclosure in Tolex.. Not an easy task! Cut out a little piece of pickguard that might get some labeling in future. All so I may change the transistors later. Right know its sound awesome with gain set at 10! but below that its more like clean boost.

Put a lot of effort in this one, specially the enclosure. Right now there is a 10n cap for C1, 68k in R2 and R4 is jumpered. In Parallel with C5 there is that small rotary switch with the following caps: 10n, 22n, 56n, 68n, 82n, 100n.

The enclosure had a little drilled hole for a led when I got it, didn't really want a led so I drilled the hole a little bigger and was able to fit the buffer-switch on the top of the enclosure.

I have been tweaking a bit but still its not 100%. The Peak-control doesn't really do anything to my ears, I may have done something wrong there. The main issue now is it does drop in volume when its engaged. Otherwise I must its the most fun project I've done so far! thank you Brian!

I'm going to place my first order at mouser in a couple of days. Mostly to get hold of some trimpots and 4uf cap for the weener wah. Noticed that enclosures are pretty expensive at mouser but are there any other "special" parts you guys recommend to get when ordering from mouser? are they extra cheap on any parts?

That turret-board-Cherry-Bomb I showed in the "build-report"-section keeps bugging me. It Sounds great to me but there is one issue. If i keep the treble-knob at "0" There is no issue. But if the Gain is turned up to 80% and above and the treble is anything but "0" it oscillates and the pitch changes with the treble-knob. What would cause something like this this?

Transistors are the ones recommended in the docs: 2n3904 for Q1 and Q3 and a 2n2222 for Q2.
Used a 2Kb pot for gain.

I've had this little UFO (unidentified f-ing object) For many years hidden away and forgotten but yesterday a came to think of it when I was searching the web for enclosures for the upcoming Wah and Univibe-projects. I don't know that much about it so i figured I would show it to you guys and maybe some of you have any information about it. I don't really like it, the pedal is springloaded, the fuzz is thin and weak but the Vibe could perhaps be usefull.

I just had to post my days work cause I'm just as proud of myself as I am chocked that it actually "kinda" works
Problem right now is that the Gain-knob only gives me distortion when I turn it to max, and right about then it all so makes a hi-pitch whine... which changes in pitch when I turn the Trebble-knob but I will give it some more attention tomorrow. Been working on it from scratch all day so I'm pretty sick of it now. And it's time for bed here in Sweden.

Here's some pics of my Turret-board-CherryBomb!!!

I would love to see a spring reverb project like the van amps solemate here, anybody have any info on them. From the one gutshot I've seen of them there doesn't seem to be that many components in them but I havn't found any schematics yet.

Just populated a current lover board. No subs, used MN3207. Followed the documentation regarding D4 correction. Got signal when bypassed but not engaged, then it started to smoke from R33 (10R). Never happened to me before so I didn't think much about it, just swapped the resistor and tryed again, same thing happend. All resistors were checked with my DMM before soldered. All diods and caps are the right way around and as far as I can tell the IC's are ok.

Any suggestions here?

Is the BOM for the bumblebee up to date? noticed that Brians build-report had a diffirent layout and I wouldn't wanna order the wrong parts?

/Markus

So, I had a little idea. I've build about 10-15 pedals now but i never been able do label them in anyway.. no success when printing inkjet and laserjet so I've just been using a magic marker.. But now I got a little bigger project in mind which is going to cost a little more than usual and I really want to make a nice faceplate to mount on it.

Here my idea!... Buy sheets of pickguard-material 3ply black/white/black and then use a drill to "mill" out letters and lines in CNC-machine (at work). by milling through the first black layer of pickguard It should reveal white letters. What do think? will it work? anybody tried anything like this?

/Markus

Last week i ordered parts for a coupple of project. Today i got a mail that told my order was shipping. When I checked the part-list i noticed I've ordered wrong parts for my cherrybomb.

this is probably a noob-question, but thats ok, cause i'm a noob 

Is it ok to put 10uf bipolar caps in C5 and C9 of the Cherrybomb?

/Markus

I've built a Pastyface and are powering it with a DC-jack and battery through a roadrage-board.
I found a wiring diagram in the Zygote-documentation wich I used to wire the pedal.

The pedal is working fine but when I was about to install a led I noticed that the chip of the roadrage is VERY hot!
This isn't normal right?

I only installed C3, C4, C5, D3 and the chip I used was a MAX1044 (CPA0851)


thank you.

/Markus

http://www.banzaimusic.com/Lumberg-PSU-1614-10.html

I ordered a couple of theese and when a got them I noticed  that there are only two solder-lugs. Since I don't really know anything about electronics I thought I ask if I'll be able to use theese like a would a normal dc-jack along with a batter  or would plugging a dc-adapter in harm the battery?