Messages

Thanks Scruffie. Here are the voltages:

IC4 (TL062)
13.84
7.96
3-12V (ranges)
0
6.97
6.97
3-12V (ranges)
14.66

IC8
11.13
3.76
3.75
0
7
7
5.96
14.4

I do get voltage that fluctuates from 5.7V to 8V on pin 10 of the 4007 with the speed just below half and the range maxed.

C6 is in there - I've tried 10p, 22p, and 30p (no 27s handy) but nothing really seems to make any difference at this point.

I have been working on Haberdasher's Flintlock Flanger and am about at the end of my rope. My build went ok, but the flanging was weak or nonexistent. I was getting some flange warble and the knobs seem to be working as they should, but it sounds terrible and there is virtually no sweep.

I ever bought a multimeter with a frequency counter thinking I could bias this up, but the meter is auto ranging and reads 0 at the test point (and at pin 13 of the 4047). I know it works because it reads frequencies elsewhere on the board, but not at the critical place.

Here are some voltages for my clock ICs (supply voltage is 14.9V) . Can anyone help me get this thing working by suggesting things to look for? I don't see any obvious soldering bridges or placement errors, but this is a big PCB. Thanks in advance

   MN3007
1   14.74
2   6.99
3   9.37
4   1.026
5   0
6   6.99
7   9.09
8   9.09

   4007
1   0.27
2   .16-.20
3   0
4   0.2
5   0.2
6   0
7   0
8   0.2
9   0.22
10   5.83
11   7.5
12   0.109
13   13.99
14   13.98

   4047
1   13.86
2   0.1
3   7.5
4   13.98
5   13.98
6   13.98
7   0
8   0
9   0
10   6.99
11   6.99
12   0
13   13.87
14   13.98

   4049
1   13.99
2   6.98
3   6.99
4   6.99
5   6.99
6   6.99
7   6.99
8   0
9   6.99
10   6.98
11   6.99
12   6.98
13   0
14   6.99
15   6.98
16   0

I haven't been following all the Silver Pony/Klon discussion very closely and just briefly checked in on the Klone Science thread when I came across this article:

http://manticorefx.wordpress.com/2014/08/17/klonformation-in-need-of-klonfirmation/

I don't know if this guy is a poster here, but he should be officially titled Dr. Klon for his study on the topic!

Sorry for the necrobump, but I am doing another run of these PCBs. If you want one, let me know in the Group Buy thread. Thanks.

I don't have anymore, but there has been some recent interest via PM. If there are more people who want one, I might consider doing an additional run!

That is absolutely unbelievable. Is that an etch on the enclosure? How did you get the sparkles? It looks amazing.

Looks great man! Hopefully you found the board easy to put together. Having everything on board is a hand thing that I'm doing that I really like. BTW, the left side is a Crunch Box. I modded mine to have less gain (aka Guv'nor specs) and it's my favourite drive pedal right now.

Just saw this - looks great! What do you think of the circuit. I sold my build, but I miss it and am thinking of putting together another one. The Roger Mayer stuff is simple, but underrated in my opinion.

Hi guys,

Over the past few months, I've built a couple dual pedals, where I put two circuits on one PCB with the switching all on-board so that everything fits into a 1590BB with topmounted jacks and board-mounted pots. So far, I've done a Fulldrive/OCD, a King of Tone/Crunchbox, and a Cornish G2/SS2.  Anyway, I love these pedals and find them crazy versatile, and I have an extra drilled enclosure lying around so I was thinking of doing another one but I can't decide. I want to know what you guys think would be cool.

Off the top of my head, I was thinking of doing:

1. A Colorsound Power Boost (run at 18V via a charge pump) and a Big Muff. Gilmour seems to like this and I've always wanted to try the colorsound.
2. A Roger Mayer Axis Fuzz and RM Octavia to get my Jimi on.

What do you guys think? Any other suggestions?

I'll try...

From the Cherry Bomb schematic, replace C4 with a 470pf cap, use BC109s for the transistors, and change the gain pot to a 10KB.

For the input cap, omit C1 from the board and instead do this:


Use 8.2n, 10n, 22n 47n, 220n (Coloursound stock value), and 470nf for the switch.

Ta-da! I think the rotary switch will make it too big for a 1590B, but there are tinier ones available at Smallbear and on Ebay so it might be do-able with some cramming.

Interesting...it does look like you could just take a Cherrybomb PCB and change the gain pot to a 10KB and wire the different input caps on a rotary switch. It might not even be worth making up a PCB for since it's so close to the original Coloursound.

I've been curious about this one too - but looking at the PCB, there seems to be too few caps. The standard CSOD has about 6 film caps. There are less than that on the Black Arts proto board and that's not even accounting for the different input caps. Is there something else going on here?

Cody - that is out of control. Fantastic looking build.

Just saw this - looks great. Nothing more satisfying than sticking with a build and getting it going after troubleshooting. Nice job!

For all you Klon experts out there - I've notice a few klone builders have been adding bass boost switches whereas others have been adding a bass contour knob. JHS is also modding the new EHX Soul Food to add this control. Does anyone know what this mod is? I assume it's a pot that blends in a larger capacitor, but where is it in the circuit? Just curious about this! Thanks.