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Hey, we're back! 

I went to this thread via the main menu.  When I got here there were no buttons on the top and no way to post. 

I went back to home and clicked the "unread topics" button, this thread was one of those.  When I came here through that route all the buttons were populated. 

Nice!  And those aren't easy builds either. 

That's pretty cool.  I watched a few demos, the tracking is super impressive. 

Bananas    Is the synth engine more like Juno presets or can you create something from scratch?

What about testing continuity from the daughter (foot switch) board to the main board?  Maybe there's a bum lead or short.

Without seeing pics, I'd guess the foot switch orientation is wrong??  This one has the foot switch orientation 90 degrees from normal.

Here's a build report link, so, you can see what I mean:

https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=34211.msg327934#msg327934

Actually, 125BB with top jacks for the duals, I think. Might be possible to do 1590BB with side jacks but then the bypass switches have to be moved close together. With 125BB everything lines up just right.

What about 1590BB2? Does the extra height help top jacks much for how you're planning it?
With the double bypass switch, how about an order switch between the two footswitches too?

I don't think Tayda carries the 125BB so maybe the 1590BB2 is the alternate choice. Perhaps the 1590BB itself is possible with the Lumberg jacks turned sideways. I'll need to check into all that.

I think the order switch thing would work out pretty well. But, it is a bit of a pain to bypass if you don't want to use it.

Maybe a slide switch would be better?  I've never played an order switcher live, not sure if it's something useful for a part of a song.

I actually think the $250 is pretty fair.  I know a muff collector ( ), he has >100 (OGs and clones).  Some of the boutique clones are in that price range.

Dang....anybody else got that FOMO taste in their mouth? 

That's awesome! 

Would the current arrangement work with a non-latching relay? 

Hmm, that is a weird one.  Have you checked that the LFO is working properly?  Scope would be perfect for that.

I was searching for similar information awhile back here's a link to that:
https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=27925.msg270453#msg270453

My process these days: 1.  I set the clock to the factory setting using the frequency setting on my DMM.  2.  I use the scope to set the bias of the BBD.  3.  I set the feedback max trim by ear.  4.  I go back and make small adjustments to the clock trim by ear (this will remove the sweep artifacts you are mentioning).

Bummed, I'll be out of town.  Pour one out for the homies 

Add some solder to your twisted connections before you cut them.

Acceptable tolerance for resisters is 1-2% but that's just because they can actually manufacture them that tight. For comparison tolerance for caps is 5-20% depending on cap type.  Your pedal is going to work.