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I spent a lot of time messing around with the Kingmaker, recently.  The info I found online said that the clock should sweep from 1.8 ms- 20 ms, so, 284 kHz - 25.6 kHz.  Initially, I set the clock trim so that without the LFO the two extremes of the Manual knob were close to these values.  But when I added in the LFO, the clock was only sweeping across the range when the Manual knob was at one extreme.  It also sounded like trash, so, I just went with Bean's recommended settings.

This made me think that I am wrong about my basic understanding of how the clock is working.  I thought that the manual knob set the base voltage into the control pin of the 3201, and the LFO voltage would add or subtract from that.  So that the manual voltage would set the center frequency that is swept up and down by the LFO.  Is this correct?  If not how should should I set the frequency of the clock to achieve a sweep between 1.8 and 20 ms? I have a frequency counter and scope.

I bet the tone is dreamy 

Bet you could stock up at Newark.  I've got a pretty hefty hoard of audio caps, they always have some EOL caps for pennies (red star).  They ship from US and UK.  Just make sure you check where each item is coming from before you put it in your cart. If you're in the US and select the UK ones it splits the order and makes shipping a pain.

Super cool 

Another banger, Gordo!    I want to see a picture of your hoard sometime 

I'm curious about this, too. Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

Is there a non printed region at the edges?  Or, can graphics wrap around? 

Thanks, I will definitely check that out.

Thanks, Brian    I'm going to try breadboarding some stuff and combine it with the AB.  I have a couple of populated boards that need a home.  Not sure, I want to mod the working ones, might try the LPB-1 first. 

Thanks guys! 

I'm not familiar with the input section of the dm-2 and how it would react, but with other circuits I've had great experiences with the lpb-1 style boost. Happy to chuck you a pot-sized-footprint pcb gratis if you want.

That would be cool, thanks!  Let me figure out how I'm going to box it.  I was thinking of fabbing a foot switch version if the parts count was low enough. It would be handy.

I would think you'd want the DM-2 first you avoid a hot signal going in to it.

I was thinking that too,  I'll mess with every thing outside of the box before I commit. 

I recently got to meet the guitarist of a band I'm super into, and offered to make him a pedal.  So, he is currently using a MXR Carbon Copy set with a short slap-back delay.  He uses it for lead sections of songs.   He mentioned that it was a too clean sounding.  The other ask was that he used to have a MXR Micro Amp and would turn on both for leads.  He ditched the micro amp because hitting both pedals was distracting. 

My plan was to build an Aqua Baby (DM-2) and add the micro amp or other clean boost inline so both are activated by one foot switch.  So, since the clean sound was a problem, I'm wondering if a preamp would be a better choice?  Or maybe a transistor based boost?  What do you guys think?

Solid advice from Willy.  You should copy and paste your graphics into their template.  Although your text is the right BB size the art board is too large.  Also, their template is going to have the layers already set up for the white, color, and gloss.  Definitely recommend adding the gloss (I like the matte gloss best).  It looks way better and adds durability. It's easy to do, just copy your graphics into the color layer first, next copy everything into the gloss layer and change the color to the gloss preset color.

<mind blown emoji> 

Are the solder brides on the ISD chip the jumpers on the tagboard layout? 

Excellent build, dude  

That looks great!  The knobs rule.  I've went on a muff kick a few years ago, so the FOMO is less on this one 

<bananas emoji>  Man, that looks awesome!  The surgery looks so clean.  Hats off to you, sir.