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Great build and it sounds great.!

I do have a nit to pic about describing reverb "drip". I see the term used alot but it's one of those things that you have to hear to really know what it is and that "it is a very mysterious and powerful device ...and it's mystery is only exceeded by it's power."

Let's all become one with the Drip...

anyone know for sure if I will get phase issues with the Rub-a-Dub reverb?

Seems it uses a Dual op amp and the signal goes into the "-" side rather than the "+"

The distortion pedals I am considering seem to use the "+" side....

Im a strong noob when it comes to phase cancellation queries...

If it goes in a - input an odd number of times it's inverted, if an even number it's not

Edit: I checked the schematic, it is not inverted

Just to check

Assume the reverb and RAT are on, and the "other fuzz is off" will that allow clean to be blended in? Yes or no?

thanks

Ian

Yep

Hi

Yes in order to have the claen blend "other fuzz" has to be off but thats apparently fine.

I dont want to have to get extra complex really, the whole point is to have two parallel distortions.

The Paralyzer PCB should sum everything back to one output.

I think you guys are saying the same thing, just showing it a little differently. "Blend circuits" usually consist of two parts, a buffered splitter, and a buffered mixer.

If it's clear to your customer that it's clean OR fuzz and there is no option for clean AND fuzz, then you are good.

The only other thing that I would consider pointing out is the potential effect that the buffer would have on the fuzz

It looks like the "Other Fuzz" will have to be off if you want clean blend. I would split the input 3 ways so the clean is independent.

Thanks guys, but to clarify, it's the intonation holes that are stripped, not the screws.

Also, I'm not 100% sure but I think it already has hardened steel inserts in the holes. I read somewhere that was the case with the license Schaller versions.

I have a midrange 80s Charvel Fusion super strat that belonged to my late brother and one of my kids has claimed it. It has a "Made in Germany by Schaller" licensed Jackson branded Floyd Rose bridge. Many of the M3 size saddle screw holes for intonation that go down into the baseplate are stripped from over-tightening. I don't want to replace it and I'd like any fix to be solid for the long term.

I was originally going to just fill with JB Weld and re-tap but I'm afraid that it will just strip out again and I'm also unsure if JB Weld is even ok to use on the cheap "pot metal" or whatever the baseplate is made of.

I've seen most questions like this suggest helicoils or other threaded inserts but others say that those are a one-time use and will deform and back out if you ever remove the screw.

(Edit: I forgot to mention, an M4 is too wide to fit between the saddle "forks")

Anyone have any suggestions for a fix?

Not sure if it will help but I have these notes from Peter on the Tractor Beam / Enterprise:

https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/vfe-enterprise-phaser.1019113/
"Jul 1, 2012#18
VFEpedals
VFEpedals
Member
Messages:112
Joined:May 24, 2011
Location:Puyallup, WA

Here's the skinny on the Enterprise:

I began messing with the Phase 90 circuit a few years back, and really liked some of the sounds I was getting out of it. As with all of my designs, I like to squeeze every ounce of goodness out of these circuits, so here's what I've done:

1) Added a feedback control that takes the phaser output & feeds it back to either the 1st (positive) or 2nd (negative) phaser stage. At noon, it feeds both evenly, and will yield zero feedback like the original 74 version.

2) Changed the output section just a little to get a full range MIX control. The output section uses 1/2 of an OPA2134PA op amp. This essentially has the same purpose as the output transistor in the 74 version, but allows for much easier output level control via the internal trimpot.

3) The STAGES switch basically changes phase stages into inverting buffers. With 2 stages, there are 2 inverting buffers...meaning no inversion, and 2 phase stages. This is like adding two buffers to the Phase 45. With 3 stages, there is 1 inverting buffer & 3 phase stages. This gives the phaser a mellower "backward" movement. 4 stage is just like a Phase 90.

4) The MODE switch toggles out a set of capacitors in two of the 4 stages. In phase mode, all the capacitors are matched, yielding a focused phase sweep like the 74 Phase 90. In vibe mode, two of the stages are matched & the other two are very different. This yields a washier, less focused sound. The uneven phase sweeps is the core of what make the Univibe sound the way it does. While the V setting isn't intended to replicate the Univibe, it does get a similar sound.

5) I added a charge pump for more headroom. The JFETs are still a HUGE limitation, so there is not much that could be done, but I did whatever I could. What this also means is that the LFO has a much wider sweep, so you'll have to pull back the DEPTH control some to get that 74 sound.

6) I added a DEPTH control, but that's not a unique feature to the Enterprise, lots of people are doing that to the original Phase 90 circuit.

There are other things that are changed, but they have to do with switching, power supply filtering, and better op amps, which make very minor differences in the phase sweep.

I hope that helps!"

Yeah, well, once a certain idea manages to worm itself into the public's brain you will find that you can argue until you are blue in the face

....and it's a vibrato, not a tremolo! I don't care how long it's been...

Yep, I have a TW version and the tone bypass is killer. There is a large volume boost and more noise but it's totally worth it. The wicker switch bypasses some caps that are normally present and it has been described as "raspy" which I can agree with.

Tubes were in the same boat at one point but look at'em now

Is this still available?

I really like the Maxon designed Ibanez stuff.

I'll put my vote in for the VFE Tractor Beam. Phase 90++