Messages

Glad to find that you've solved it. 

[VFE Triumvirate]

I'm looking forward to doing a VFE Triumvirate. Any idea on when they might be back in stock?

Ordered and received !

WillyBomb - I recognize your issue was not directly bypass-related, but thought to toss those articles out there. Switching components in a live circuit's audio path almost always calls for "make-before-break" consideration. You might want to consider a relay switching configuration to solve for such popping. Some relays come in 'MBB' and 'BBM' options. Just adding high value resistors across the lugs of the switches are not likely to solve the issue in this situation.

If you're switching components in and out of a live circuit, there is going to be a "pop" because a stompswitch is not a "make-before-break" style of switch. The split second that a pair of components are switched in a live circuit, there is nothing connected in that short span of time. But in that split second, the potentials change and when a switched component is suddenly re-engaged, that slight voltage differential is released as an audible "pop" because the audio signal path is momentarily broken and then suddenly remade with different value(s). A stompswitch is a "break-before-make type of switch.

Swapping clipping diodes typically doesn't "pop" because the signal path is not "broken" during the switching process. Switching pots with a stompswitch in a live circuit momentarily breaks the audio path, a voltage differential then accumulates in that split second, and then when the connection is remade, that differential has to go somewhere; and it does it so rapidly that it injects a "spike" into the audio signal path.

Bypass switching typical doesn't (or at lest shouldn't) when there is a high-value resistor (typically 1M Ω) to ground that shunts the momentary differential.

A "make-before-break" type of switch avoids breaking the audio signal path.

Here are a couple of links that explain 'bypass switch pop' (however, I think your situation is different):

http://www.muzique.com/lab/pop.htm

https://www.mrblackpedals.com/blogs/straight-jive/6629778-what-really-causes-switch-pop

http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/box_pop.htm

Hope this helps.

I'm working on the LED bug issue right now and it's actually a bit tougher nut to crack than I initially thought (as far as finding the simplest, least intrusive fix). I think I know what to do at this point. I should have a final update tomorrow.

Any further word on this? I'm about done populating my Man-O-War Deluxe and currently on hold to leave room for any mods if need be. Thanks!

Solution has been found! Or rather, you found it A 2M2 from IC pin3 to ground fixes the issue. I'll type up the correction and post it in the errata section.

Mark, expect a little something in the mail from me soon. This one had be knackered. I tried several other solutions before yours and none of them were nearly as easy or clever. You kinda saved my bacon here.

Brian - that's rather re-assuring. Thanks! Now I feel better both about what I recall about electronics and moving forward with this build. Here's how I plan to tack a 1/8 watt 2M2 Ω resistor from the center pin of the 3-way toggle (which is connected directly to pin 3 of IC 7-A) to ground - at the #1 lug of the Feedback pot nearby. (hopefully the image uploaded correctly.)

Glad I could help.

I'm working on the LED bug issue right now and it's actually a bit tougher nut to crack than I initially thought (as far as finding the simplest, least intrusive fix). I think I know what to do at this point. I should have a final update tomorrow.

Any further word on this? I'm about done populating my Man-O-War Deluxe and currently on hold to leave room for any mods if need be. Thanks!

I'm working on the LED bug issue right now and it's actually a bit tougher nut to crack than I initially thought (as far as finding the simplest, least intrusive fix). I think I know what to do at this point. I should have a final update tomorrow.

My first thought would be to try adding a 2M2 Ω resistor from pin 3 of IC7-A (where the T/O/S switch connects) to ground. At least that portion of the opamp wouldn't just 'float' when the Modulation is set to Off. Mind you I've slept since I've done any real design work. Still, I'm look forward to seeing your solution. I'm in the population stage on my M-O-W and have all the resistors, diodes, sockets, trimmers & caps in place and am now in hold mode till I see a more affirming solution from you. Meanwhile, I'll focus on the enclosure design. Thanks for looking into this Brian.

[9mm pot panel]

Is there an ETA on the 9mm pot panels? The projects page said Oct 16 a few days ago, now it has today's date (Oct 18). Just curious as I could put them to use immediately. Getting a Pork Barrel too, but waiting on the 9mm pot panels. Thanks!

Yeah, ETA is like two hours, haha. Just finishing up the Softie docs and everything will go live at once.

You da man! Thanks! Order placed & paid.

Cybercow

Yeah, Anderton was one of those ahead of the times. I first discovered him and works back in the 70's with a monthly rag "Polyphony" full of great circuit ideas. "Polyphony" eventually became "Electronic Musician" and continued great circuit dives until Anderton sold it (out?) to a larger publication group and IMO it went downhill from there. Back issues of Polyphony are still available and one EU site has posted them as scanned PDFs.

Craig's "Tube Sound" circuit just astounded me to think that a CMOS chip was the heart of the sound. Still love the basic circuit.

[9mm pot panel]

Is there an ETA on the 9mm pot panels? The projects page said Oct 16 a few days ago, now it has today's date (Oct 18). Just curious as I could put them to use immediately. Getting a Pork Barrel too, but waiting on the 9mm pot panels. Thanks!

Whenever I think I want to buy any electronic components from eBay, I always check their stats - what is their ratings percentile (I only select 99+%), they must have at least 100 successful sales with a 5 star rating, they must take PayPal and they MUST have a return policy. With that criteria, I rarely have any issues with parts from eBay.

As for the fake US sellers, I take the time and report them to eBay. They get around the "USA Only" check box by using a fake (or even real) US address in their account settings. So far, everyone that I've reported were dealt with by eBay and they closed their account or changed their location status. If you work with eBay, they will work with you.

It appears I did my homework right and the order change worked as hoped in the original post. My LaserWolf is now ordered as OverDrive - Phaser - Delay. (using the jumpers noted in the original post)

If I've done my homework right, I should be able to configure the order switch-pads on the LaserWolf to get an OverDrive - Phaser - Delay circuit order using the connections indicated in the attached image. I' just looking for another set of LaserWolf-aware eyes to verify. tia