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And it depends on the turn-on threshold of the tremolo transistor (TR-1) and reverb transistor (Q103).  You could test it by putting a  milliamp meter to ground from each source to see what the normal turn-on current is.  Then add progressively larger resistors in series to find the turn-on threshold current (when the effect no longer turns on.)   If it's more than 2-3 mA or so, you could power a fuzz. 

Is the pedal already housed? If not, could maybe squeeze a sub mini it the top under the DC if you set the pcb low enough and skip a breakout board for the footswitch.

+1, here's an example of a similar approach that worked for me.

If you're mounting pots to the PCB, and the pots have standard length legs, most toggle switches will be slightly taller than that and won't fit under the PCB.  Here are some approaches I've used:
1. Mount the toggle to the east, west, north or south of the PCB (see photo with one to the west.) 
2. If your enclosure is deep enough, use pots with extra-long legs which will allow the toggle lugs to clear the solder side of the PCB.  Or use solder-lug pots and wire them to the PCB holes, which will give you more clearance under the PCB for a toggle.  You can use flexible wire, or just add three long straight legs made from clipped resistor legs. 
3. If your enclosure is not deep enough for (2), try a deeper enclosure.  Example: 1590BBS is 9mm deeper than 1590BB, with all other dimensions the same. 1590T is even deeper, although slightly narrower.
4. Mount the toggle on one side of the enclosure, as seen in many JHS mods, there's always room if the toggle sits in the battery space and your use external 9V power.
5. There are low-profile push on/push off switches that take a round hole and protrude less from the side of the enclosure than a toggle, the one in the pic is 4PDT and has an LED indicator.  Search the part number at Mouser, Digikey, Newark, etc.
6. Make a PCB with holes for the toggle wherever you want it, the body heights of toggles and pots are similar enough to accommodate.

You can still get Dymo-brand 3D label refills at Grainger, Target and a few other sources, just look for the Dymo brand name.  There are also occasional odd lots on eBay when somebody cleans out Grandma's closet.  I use a pink "Caption Maker" Dymo model myself...

Yep, your drawing matches your schematic.  Don't forget to tie in the string ground.

And for convenience, you could add a ground lug as a tie point somewhere in the cavity, and run leads from it to all the other places that need a ground, rather than daisy-chaining grounds. 

And if you'll be shielding the cavity with copper or aluminum tape for noise reduction, the lug can serve as the connection, just screw it down after you apply the tape.   

Yes, your 2-pot wiring scheme will work as you've drawn it, and will give you the same switching options as the original. 

There may be a way here:  http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/potsecrets/potscret.htm
See the part about adding a resistor between pot terminals 3 & 2 of a linear (B) taper pot, to give it a more anti-log (C) taper.  If you do that to your log (A) taper pot, it should bring it a bit closer to a linear (B) taper ( log + antilog = linear.) 

<edit: I failed to notice you've already tried this until after I'd posted, sorry.  You're right about the taper.>

In this application, you can convert a 500k pot into a 50k pot by adding a 56.2k resistor across terminals 1 and 3, as you say.  56.2k and 500k in parallel yield ~ 50k.  The taper of this modified A-taper pot will be different than a 50kB pot, since most of the change will happen in the last 1/2 rotation, but if you can tolerate that, it should work.  In the Spackler schematic, this added resistor should go between the C5/C6 junction, and the negative side of C7.   

+1.  The nature of bass amps is that you need significantly more clean wattage than a guitar amp to get the same perceived volume level.  Even for practice, a couple of watts won't do.

It's lovely!   I like the white theme.  I made Kevin's L5 preamp several years ago, and will have to try this one.  BTW, he's reposted the build doc, with the corrected pot names on the template.

I'm thinking you may have a too-long trace (adding too much inductance) connected to your lower op amp (EQ) pin 6 (inverting input.)  It runs all the way to the top of the board to pick up Mids pot 1 and Tone pot 1.  Feedback loops might need to be shorter than that, stray inductance or capacitance there can cause oscillation.

Thanks Willy, you've got dibs on any queries I get from your hemisphere!  I've shipped a few from US to Australia, and the postage costs and transit times make me sad.

Sure, let me dig out the files and I'll make a posting on Member Projects.  They were hot sellers during the years Prescription Electronics was closed.

I've retired from building for hire, but I still get a query every month or two from someone looking for a custom pedal.  If you're an experienced builder (IDK, maybe >10 completed?) and you're interested in getting mostly US-based referrals for one-of-a-kind work, PM me and we can talk.  Sometimes it's a straight clone with custom graphics, sometimes it's a start-from-scratch and design your own vero or PCB.  The last two queries were for a DOD FX76 Punkifier (clone) and an Alembic SF-2 (scratch.)  You can get a feel for the kind of effort that might be involved (scope, variety, historical price range, etc) here:  https://reverb.com/shop/mikescustompedals?query=custom&show_only_sold=true .  Thanks, Mike

Road Rage can supply -9V for Vee, up to 100 mA with an LT1054, less with other chips.  You can get your +9V Vcc directly from your +9V DC supply as usual, doesn't require the Road Rage involvement.