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 Well let me put around the other way. If you were going to buy a pedal,  would you care what foot switch it had in it ?

-Mike

Somnif, those (pro 3pdt at Mammoth) are what I have defaulted to for now until something changes my mind. I don't think I'd go for anything cheaper than that, but I'm trying to figure out if there is any advantage on spending more. Or, is it more of a preference sort of thing.

Jimilee, I'm dense. When I get some time later today I'll look it up because I'm curious and because right now, I haven't got a clue what that's all about. Plus, NASA was mentioned and I grew up in Houston idolizing that organization. So, if it's good for them, then I'm sure I've got something to learn from it.

-Mike

 I'm going to have to look that up, I have a hard time picturing it.

-Mike

So this question is about Your go to footswitch, not special applications.

I want to know what you choose and why?

I geek out over quality, but is a $15 footswitch really justified. On the other hand picking up 10 for $5 off of eBay scares me.

I'm actually looking for a good balance of quality and fiscal responsibility.

I have no idea if  "soft touch" is desirable or that sort of thing or how important gold-plated lugs are?

-Mike

I totally thought people would have no idea what I meant or would think this was minutiae. Thanks for not making fun of me.

I appreciate the tips and Brian that's my current practice, but I just shipped a pedal off for a demo that worked prior to shipment, I actually took a video. So, I'm populating a list of suspects to run down. That was my number one suspect. Guess I'll chill out and wait till I get my hands on it.

-Mike

While my soldering has improved 10,000% with the addition of reading glasses (I'm officially an old fart) and rote practice, my weakest joint is at the guitar jack.

Any tips/tricks or am I just a goober?

-Mike

If you want some D9E's I've got plenty. I"d be more than happy to send you a few gratis if you decide to go with that particular diode.

Just send me a PM with your addy if you decide on them.

-Mike

 I'm obviously a little slow on the pick up on some things. As noted in this thread.   I did pick up on the fact pretty early do you need to directly measure a lot of things and that's why I took such care for measurement of those diode's.

You guys have no idea how much I appreciate all the help. I have belong to other forums  for other purposes and encountered a tremendous amount of hostility for seemingly no reason whatsoever. The reception is been very different here and I really do appreciate it .

All right, I made even more corrections. You're gonna help me get my crud straight One way  another.

Hard to believe how much I've  already learned from this thread. Keep up the good work.

-Mike

Duh, I totally missed that. That's why younshouldn't Do five things at once.

Give me a minute and I'll fix it.  I may not get it right the first time but I'll sure is hell keep trying.

-Mikel

Would this be more palatable for you?

Diodes: Bill F., has stated that 1n34a's were the original diode. The forward voltage was ~0.35. I aimed for that value. We need to also understand that a guideline as those numbers can vary a great deal with a multitude of factors including each individual HHMM. So, it is just a guideline.

Many hundreds of diodes were tested.
D9B, D9E and D9K sourced from Bulgaria.
1n34a, 1n60a and 1n914 sourced from the US were tested.
As per the build documentation, I tested some  100 1n270 diodes were sourced from Tayda in Thailand. The values of these varied a great deal including quite a few of what I call "Hot loads" that measured 0.4v or more. A number of them were an exact match or were within a few hundredths of a volt. I made the decision to use these.

As for the caps, it is painfully obvious that I have a lot more reading to do. Now, Impicked up the "Art Of Electronics" from Amazon for some light reading a couple of years ago. I can only compare it to my old immunuology textbook for induction of catatonic zombie sleep.

Can someone give me better recs for an electronics book. I don't know, Imguess I'm looking for "Basic Bear Guide to Making LED's Glow Pretty" or "Piggly Wiggly and Adventures in Resistors".

As always, any help much appreciated.

-Mike

 Cool thank you for reply that helps a lot.

-Mike

Thank you, I still have a vast amount to learn and am just a babe in the woods. When you post info like this I inevitably learn and I do have my disclaimer "I'm just a cook., you guys  are chefs".  I mean that am not an EE or even a tech for that matter and so if I make a mistake it should not be a surprise.

Now if you want to discuss 1 year survival of Glioblastoma or the relative merits of the Mayfield head clamp then I would be more in my element.

-Mike

The directions are pretty minimal for this add on.

It just states to wire one side to a diode pair pad on the PCB and wire the other side to the other diode pair pad on the PCB.

I am assuming that this means I would connect one side to the square pad on a diode pair and the other side to the other square pad on the same paAm I correct in my thinking?

Secondly a lot of OD/distortion boards have a second set of clipping diodes. My first thought was jumper these and sort of simplify things.  Is that what you would do?

Any thoughts?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

-Mike

Is there anything wrong with that and is that what you would do I would you utilize them somehow?

-Mike

 Thanks I'll give it a shot.

-Mike