Messages

Thanks so much. I finished my ce2 last year but I'll take a look! Thanks for the adv.

Hi to all,

This week I'll start building my Fritter.

I searched in internet and I see that the hotcake has a bass version too and even the newer guitar one has an internet switch to select guitar/bass operation.

If this change can be made using an internal switch I think this is a simple thing but can't find any schematic that let me explain how mod it from guitar to bass specs.

I took a look at the Fritter schematic and I see that there are only few components.

Any idea on the changes to get the bass version?

I think a bigger value of input and output cap but I could be wrong.

Any ideas? Thanks

I always measure every resistor and cap with the DMM before soldering. I am not in hurry, I hate debugging, I don't trust suppliers to not make errors,  and I am too colour blind to read resistor codes. 

You're right, I must do the same when I built something...
I found that the resistor was wrong because I see too much orange... 

You found the problem.
330k are too large.
In my naughty fish I used 1k2 for R16 and I think is a value near the limit here.

Made a try...and now all works! Even this time ... problem caused by a wrong component!
Next time I'll pay more attention even if the part is inside a bag with labeled value etc...

Thanks to all!

First Update,

I double checked everything... I found that r16 and r22 are 330K instead of 330ohm (received wrong resistors). I'll take a look if I have some right resistor and I'll update you

Hi to all!

Here I am again. In the latest episodes I had problems mainly caused by "fake chips" etc... this time the situation is different (I think).

I built a naughty fish using the suggested components. For the Vactrol I used the Xvive replica as wrote.

The situation is this:

The pedal works but no envelope at all. I tried the lp/hp/bp switch and the audio change, same thing with lo-hi. The up/down switch seems to do nothing (no sonic changes), the gain works and the peak change almost nothing (I assume it works because at o position the sound changes a bit).

I saw that the top led (which indicates the envelope situation) is always off, it turns on and stay always on when i move the range switch to the right (RANGE UP). If I play etc (at all gain settings) when it is off it remains off and when it is on it remains on.

I also noticed a lot of volume boost when the gain pot is turned right.

Don't know how it is possibile. I double check'd the soldering points etc but no issue.

For C4 I used a nichion muse capacitor (non polarized) but I don't think this is the problem.

The Measurement I made are those:

IC1:

Pin1 2.5mv
Pin2 2.5mv
Pin3 0.2mv
Pin4 -8.98
Pin5 2.8mv
Pin6 6mv
Pin7 6mv
Pin8 9.44

IC2LEFT:

Pin1 .64
Pin2 3.3mv
Pin3 0.1mv
Pin4 -8.94
Pin5 -6.32
Pin6 -4,94
Pin7 -6,82
Pin8 9,45

IC2RIGHT:

Pin1 1,11
Pin2 3,2mv
Pin3 0,1mv
Pin4 -8,98
Pin5 3,73
Pin6 .38
Pin7 7.84
Pin8 9,44

IC3:

Pin1 4mv
Pin2 6,3mv
Pin3 0,2mv
Pin4 -8,98
Pin5 0,3mv
Pin6 4,1mv
Pin7 5,8mv
Pin8 9,44v

IC4:

Pin1 1,39
Pin2 5,11
Pin3 0,4mv
Pin4 -4,06
Pin5 -8,98
Pin6 2,57
Pin7 1,45
Pin8 9,44

VACT1
Led- 6,10
Led+ 7,84
photores up 6,3mv
Photores down 6,3mv

VACT2
Led- 6,11
Led+ 7,84
photores up 4,1mv
Photores down 4,1 mv

Here's some shots:


(the pots aren't touching the pcb/I removed the insulation to taking some shots)
Any ideas?

Thanks

[Pin5-7.20v]

Hi to all!

Here I am with another problem! I just built my Collosalus, it works but there are some problems.
I tried to set it but I have a "going" sound at a certain point of the sweep, the regen control seems to not work at all...so...I made some measurement and I found some Voltage errors.
I power my collosalus at 9V. Here the measurement:

IC1:
Pin1-7.43
Pin2-7.31
Pin3-7.32
Pin4-0
Pin5-6.80
Pin6-7.28
Pin7-7.28
Pin8-14.73

IC2
Pin1-7.37
Pin2-7.38
Pin3-7.33
Pin4-0
Pin5-7.46
Pin6-7.37
Pin7-7.38
Pin8-14.73

IC3
Pin1-varies
Pin2-7.51
Pin3-varies
Pin4-0
Pin5-7.62
Pin6-7.63
Pin7-varies
Pin8-14.72

IC4
Pin1-7.29
Pin2-7.29
Pin3-7.21
Pin4-0
Pin5-7.33
Pin6-7.38
Pin7-7.42
Pin8-14.73

IC5
Pin1-14.73
Pin2-7.10
Pin3-7.14
Pin4-7.14
Pin5-7.20
Pin6-7.16
Pin7-7.16
Pin8-0
Pin9-7.16
Pin10-7.12
Pin11-7.16
Pin12-7.16
Pin13-mv
Pin14-7.16
Pin15-7.12
Pin16-mv

IC6
Pin1-7.18
Pin2-7.20
Pin3-circa12-14
Pin4-0
Pin5-7.20v
Pin6-0
Pin7-0
Pin8-14.72
Pin9-14.72
Pin10-10circa
Pin11-14.72
Pin12-circa12-14
Pin13-14.72
Pin14-14.72

IC7
Pin1-17.76
Pin2-0
Pin3-14.73

IC8
Pin1-1.9
Pin2-4.82
Pin3-0
Pin4-mv
Pin5-mv
Pin6-2.56
Pin7-1.44
Pin8-9.37

IC9
Pin1-14.72
Pin2-7.14
Pin3-8.22
Pin4-1.5
Pin5-0
Pin6-7.12
Pin7- 7-8 circa
Pin8- 7-8circa

I marked in red the totally wrong value.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Not too low and not too high. 1-2V is usually where you want it. You can go higher but will need a different zener diode.

Thanks so much for the precious info! Really! 

That sounds perfect to me - at the low end of the 5457's spec, so not as good for buffers/gain stages but perfect for phasers.

Glad to hear! Just a last thing, in caso is it better to have a high vgg or a low one?
Thanks again and sorry for the several questions.

IMHO, no. I've built literally dozens of phasers and I haven't heard any difference at all.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks so for sharing your experience!

JFETs don't play by the rules of other types of components. The manufacturing process is wildly inexact, so they basically just make a batch of JFETs according to a certain process and then label them with part numbers according to their performance.

So 5952s have a VGS(off) range of -1.3V to -3.5V. Typically for a Phase 90 you want it to be in the -1.5V to -2V range.

5457s have a Vgs(off) range of -0.5V to -6V. This means that the entire range of a 5952 will fit inside the range of a 5457.

This is speaking very roughly since there are some other differences between 5457's and 5952's such as the IDSS range. But when used in the Phase 90 we typically only match based on Vgs(off) so other specs are less of an issue.

Long story short - a quad of 5457s and 5952s with the same Vgs(off) value should behave identically. With JFETs, the part number is a lot less rigid than with other types of components and the actual specs of the individual device are the most important thing.

So generally speaking, a batch of 5457s is less likely to render good matches for the Phase 90 since the ideal P90 spec is on the low end of its range. But, it's definitely possible - and no, in this case 5952's wouldn't necessarily be an upgrade.

Thanks so much for the detailed explanation!
The bag that contained the transistor reports:
Id 2,5 mA
Vp 1,3 V
What do you think about it?
Thanks so!

Hi to all!

I just finished a Phase 90 clone and it works pretty nice.

With the kit I received a matched quartet of 2n5457 instead of the classic 2n5952.

So, here the question: If I get a matched quartet of 2n5952 do I get some improvement (even small) or nothing change?

Thanks so

Hi to all!

As said the chorus is now working!

I made some test and I found that I have a little drop in volume when the chorus is engaged.
Any ideas to solve the problem???

Thanks

Probably an idiot reply but..did you set the trimpot halfway before testing it? It seems that is fully clockwise in the photos.

Hi to all!

Finally I got my porkbarrel working. I'd like to know if are there some mods that could be interesting that are suitable for bass guitar?

I tried the speed mod but I don't like it so much.

Last thing, I found some times ago a mod that involves changing the  c13 capacitor but I can't find the reference. Can someone helps me with this?

Thanks

glad you got it going. fake or rubbish IC's are the bane of my life!

I understand well! Got problems with an Aquaboy build... fake mn3101!
Hope to be a little bit lucky next times