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And my next question is, if I could replace the original Relay TQ2-L-5V for something else. I cannot find that here in Germany (except Mouser, but the shipping costs are astronomics).

Thanks again!

I don't know of a direct substitution. Check the data sheet of other 5V DPDT relays if you can find any.

If you're in Germany, this may help:
https://www.banzaimusic.com/Panasonic-TQ2-L-5VDC.html

Amateurs think tactics, professionals think logistics. It applies to guitar pedals just as much as it applies to military matters. A good pedal board, power supply and cables are a hell of a lot more important then OMGZ I MUST HAVE THIS NEW OVERDRIVE!!! Although I reckon you have to go through your sprawled out collection of daisy chained pedals before coming to the realization that A: I need something better then this and B: what do I actually need in pedals and how am I going to fit and power that on a board?

Haha I think you're spot on. I'm looking to get a power supply that is reliable and fits my power needs. It seems both 1 Spot and Voodoo Labs can offer that (I think I'm leaning VL, but I'm open to more feedback). With the pedalboard itself, pedal train doesn't really look all that great to me. That's why I'm searching for better options.

I'd say my board area is around 'medium'—24" x 12" should be more than enough. I move things around a bit, though. Modulation/time effects are more or less set, but gain boxes move around depending on use. Beyond all that, I think my biggest priority is solid construction (including underside PSU mounting) than can handle being moved well. A huge plus would also be being able to leave the EHX DMM under the board (since it takes up a stupid amount of space) and have it controlled via a small footprint looper switch.

Reference the page 2 notes of the build document and the pcb image. The orientation is addressed there.

So I think I'm deciding between the Voodoo Labs Pedal Power 2 Plus and the 1 Spot TrueTone CS#. I don't need an AC out. Can the 1 Spot jump two 12v outs for 24v for the EHX DMM like the Voodoo Labs? Both seem great—are there any considerations that tips it one way or the other?

In re pedalboards, pedaltrain seems ubiquitous. Is this pretty much standard? Anyone have exceptional experience with anything else? Maybe a smaller manufacturer?

Thanks for the replies (hope more chime in). Definitely have a lot to consider. 

I'm interested about the boards too. I considered building my own, but it didn't seem cost effective. Are there any boards people are particularly happy with?

Here is an example of Google Lens on my phone translating a PDF on my desktop screen

Ah yes, the hair end die-cast case and rubber stove do indeed provide excellent stability.

Check out the switching board doc found on the projects page. It applies to all VFE projects. You'll need that for the switching board population as well.

I've used wall warts and daisy chains forever. I'm thinking about upgrading to a PSU, though, and put together a proper pedal board instead of chaining everything together whenever I set up. My chain is almost exclusively analog 9v center negative effects (i.e., no high-current digital pedals). There are a few with 12v and 18v inputs (and a DMM at 24v). I'm wondering what's worked and what hasn't.

I'm also interested to hear thoughts on pedalboards (brands, styles, velcro or not, etc.).

fair.child might have what you're looking for.

Oh yeah. Cooder's stuff is really cool. He uses the acrylic pieces to great effect.

That's not a bad suggestion. Unfortunately, I've got art pretty much to the edges, so that won't work here. I could see making a border integrate the bolts and look really good though. Definitely going to keep that in mind for the future.

Right—I was just wondering if there were any glues / liquid adhesives that might work well too in addition to the tapes you had mentioned. I had come across some VHB series products while searching before (the 5952 popped up—but that's 1.1mm thick). Your suggested options seem much better. 3M Scotch weld also came up in my initial search. Do do have any experience with that? Do you think that double sided tape is a better method over a glue?

Unfortunately, the faceplate is already cut, so pre-application isn't an option. The tapes do seem manageable to work with, though.

Thanks. So, you'd suggest a tape over a glue? I know I want to avoid anything that melts plastics for adherence (some of the 'industrial' glues/cements will do that).

I've been using some laser etched acrylic faceplates on builds lately. On all of them to this point, I've cut holes in the faceplate for pots/switches so that the hardware will hold them in place. With this latest project, the design didn't really work out so that I could use that method, so I've got an acrylic faceplate that needs to be affixed to the powder coated enclosure without the aid of hardware. Are there particular adhesives that folks have used for this purpose with good results? I'd rather not use 3M foam tape (since it adds more height than I'd like and I don't know about longevity), but I'm open to any other options.

I have a weird preference for always putting the keyways on threaded bushings upward.

I do the same thing.

Are you getting any LFO noise or problems with the LEDs?