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Ended up hitting em with the hot air gun and that seemed to do the trick! Was thinking I might have to macgyver up something like wrap a paperclip around my soldering iron tip!

Would still like to hear about this dental pick thing tho!!

I use a stainless steel dentist's pick from Smallbear, for things like that.

Interesting! How does that work? Do you heat the pad up as much as possible then use the pick to push the solder through?

One more question.. I've removed the LEDs but I'm having trouble removing all the solder from the pads to I can install the LEDs back the 'correct' way. I've got a solder sucker thing and solder wick, but can't seem to remove some of the solder.

Does anyone have any tips to try to remove the stubborn solder? Should I try to use a higher temp or something?

Might have prematurely posted.. I grabbed another similar LED and tried touching the Cathode to the circular pad and Anode to the square pad. When I pressed the footswitch it lit up!! So now I'm in the process of taking it apart so I can switch the LEDs around. Hopefully this is my only problem with this build!!

So I've just finished putting my Klein Bottle together but unfortunately I'm having some issues.

There's output when I plug the guitar into the input and the Master Volume pot is responsive but when I try to engage the footswitches the LEDs don't light up. I haven't got any pedals plugged into the in/outs but I don't think the input jacks are switching so I don't think that would be the issue. I put the LEDs Cathode into the square pad and the Anode into the circular pad, could I have installed them the wrong way?

I'm trying to decipher the schematic to attempt to trace the problem. Trying to work out where to start.. the power input is the top left of the schematic, right? I checked with a DMM to see if I'm getting 9V at the input and that seems fine.

If anyone has any tips on how I should go about tracing the problem I'd really appreciate it. Hopefully this could be a great learning experience in troubleshooting circuits! Anyway, looking forward to hearing back, thanks in advance

I have family stuff this weekend over the holiday but I am 98% sure everything will be released by the following Saturday. Maybe even the Softie relay bypass, too.

That's awesome! Looking forward to Saturday! Glad to hear you're doing well

Any update on when the new boards will be available? Really keen for the Harbinger 1.5, Polytrog and of course the new giveaway! Got some spare change for these burning a hole in my pocket.. noticed the Harbinger build docs are up so hopefully not too much longer, right?

Hope you're well and truely on the mend now mate, take it easy

Quick update: I used my new rework station to desolder those 2 chips and soldered a couple of new ones in the correct way this time

Man you weren't joking about the lack of space between the caps and pots!! Doesn't help I got the 4x .47uF WIMA caps from Tayda because Mouser didn't have them in stock.. they are a little thicker than the outline on the board so there's a bit of overhang on each side.

Anyway, I was thinking maybe I should solder in everything apart from the electrolytic caps that are obstructing my access to the pots, then just like in the video I'll put the pots and switches in loose then insert the lot into the enclosure and solder those in place so I know it's all going to line up perfectly with the drilled holes. Then I can take it all back out, solder the caps and wires in and continue on from there?

Will watch the video again and see if that is going to cause issues. Can't see that it will but better safe than sorry.

Thanks for the heads up, I'll definitely take that into consideration when I get there. Have had some challenging builds where it gets pretty tight when it comes time to solder the potentiometers.. I've definitely scorched a few caps! Would love to avoid this sort of thing though

Yes they did come in packaging like that. I think I'll play it safe and just get replacement chips and take the loss as a learning experience. Thanks again man.

Fuck! I see them now! I feel really stupid :/ no it looks like I fucked up IC13 aswell. Damn, thanks so much for your help, I really am a moron! Wish me luck not cooking the chips with the hot air! Any tips there?

So this is where I am confused.. I figured the line ie. marker for pin 1 would be aligned against the text for ICx. Like for IC9 I put the line closest to the text 'IC9'. So I guess the opposite is true? I'm really confused haha :/

Thanks man I'll have to correct that with the rework station. Hopefully I don't destroy the chip in the process. What about IC13 and the other 3 OPA1604's?

If you don't mind that'd be really helpful! Hopefully they are the same ICs that I have.. but if you could confirm the orientation in regards to the line printed on the IC's that would be really helpful! Thanks again for your help mate

Oh jeez I was worried about putting them in the wrong way :/ I figured the line on the chip would line up with the writing on the board. Is this correct? Looks like I might need the rework station after all!! :/

By the way, thank you so much for taking the time to investigate this for me! Can you tell me where on the schematic tells you pins 1 and 2 are connected so maybe I can learn where to look in the future?