Messages

You could get fancy and use a pot with an spst on it. Then just pull the shaft up for added bass.

I wish I had thought of this before! I might build one up where each pot has this for the three switches. That would be totally slick!

I haven't seen one of those before, though I have seen them with DPDTs.  It IS a great idea; would depth of the enclosure would be an issue?  The minipot/DPDT I've used before on a guitar, IIRC, would be a little too deep for a BB.

Thanks for the info, eniacmike; I still haven't tested it with my main amp yet, so I'm undecided, but I'm now leaning towards installing a DIP-type switch, instead of the toggle.  It doesn't seem like something I'd ever feel the need to switch on AND off while playing.

If I want to eliminate the increased bass option and not utilize the Wet switch, do I need to jumper those two pads, or just leave them empty? Alternatively, can anyone recommend an appropriate DIP switch from Mouser to use there? 

Really looking forward to the Double Flush Tremolo; tremolo is a glaring hole in my collection!

[have you adjusted the trim pot through its full range of motion?]

the3secondrule, have you adjusted the trim pot through its full range of motion?   After removing the switch I had wired up (improperly, somehow) and wiring the jacks directly to the board, I experienced the same problem you have, including the no signal with the vibe switch engaged. 

But after adjusting the trimmer, lo and behold, I got sweet, rich chorusing!  So, if you haven't tried that (and I didn't see it mentioned), you may want to give it a shot.  Also, I guess this means we can rule out the concern about the chips being fakes.   

And Brian?  Everything sounds great; thanks for the fantastic board!    

I'll be very interested in hearing the outcome of this, as I purchased my set from the goodbuy711 as well (don't want to hijack the thread, as the problem I'm experiencing isn't exactly the same).

feel free to high-jack the thread  - you might help me figure out what I've done wrong 

Well, MY problem was that I (was) getting a straight signal when bypassed, no sound whatsoever when engaged, and a muddy (loaded?) signal when engaged with the battery disconnected.  At this point, I've detached the switch and am going to try wiring the jacks straight to the board, to see if I had a switch problem, before delving deeper into the board itself.  Also, the battery I was using measured 7.9V, but I don't know if that would have been sufficient to completely silence the engaged effect.  I'll post more when I've got the jacks wired up, and if I have the same problem, I'll try to get some voltage readings posted.

I'll be very interested in hearing the outcome of this, as I purchased my set from the goodbuy711 as well (don't want to hijack the thread, as the problem I'm experiencing isn't exactly the same).

Great, thanks. 

[real]

I've just ordered one of the Double Delay extension boards from abfackeln over at FSB (he found some more, in case you hadn't read http://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8376&start=220  ), and have a real noob question about them: Will the on-board cancel and trim trimpots on the DD board replace those on the main board, or will they be used in conjunction with the ones on the main board?  The answer may be in that thread, but I haven't run across it yet.

Looks great, eniacmike.  How do you have the board held in place?  Is it just floating loose, or is there something I'm not seeing?

Thanks Haberdasher.  Yes, the 8.382mm = 0.33", but they list the shaft diameter as 16mm - NOT the 0.25" that the regular pots do - with a 17mm body dimension.  That seems a bit odd; I should probably look at the data sheet to see if that's a mistake on Mouser's part.

I have learned the hard way that you can't trust the pictures they show. 

Has anyone been able to find the same spec pots in reverse log taper at Mouser?  I forgot to order a 1MC on my last Small Bear order, and still have to place one with Mouser, but haven't found anything. 

I haven't been able to find either a perf layout or a standard 8-pin IC PCB of the Hotcake (though I have found a vero and a PCB built around the old-style metal can IC); I imagine it would be a fairly simple design for someone who knows how to do it, perhaps one that could be built for either of the two major iterations of this design.

Thanks for the responses, guys.  I was more concerned about physical bulk than sound; the caps I used on my first BMP back in 2000 (jeez, 10 years now!) sounded fine, but were cramped like crazy, and many had to be bent over at odd angles or standing up much higher than they should have just to accommodate the other components.  That lead spacing info is particularly helpful, madbean; thanks for the Panasonic prefix.

Just curious: were those used in the prototype AVX? I found a pic online from Digikey that looked exactly like them.   

Hi, this is my first post.  I'm trying to determine what  brand of capacitor is suitable for an Aquaboy build.
The brand used in the prototype pictured in the documentation (the yellow box caps, that is) appear to be the AVX brand, which Mouser has marked "obsolete" and seem to be phasing out (very few are still available).  In the past, I've only used greenies, but I realize that this is sort of a tight build, so I'm wondering what brands others were able to use successfully. . . say, some similar make of box cap. There are so many to choose from with Mouser, and other than checking the dimensions of every kind, I've no idea where to start; any ideas?