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Yum! Pizza sounds good right now! LOL!

Yes it is,
BUT
TR is a positive ground effect, DBD is a negative ground effect which lessens power supply issues.

Lol!
It's funny that you posted this as I emailed MB 3 days ago and asked him if he had any of these boards left! Maybe the interest here will get a run of boards made. Fingers crossed!

Hi Everyone,
What was the original value for C7 (PB2019) on the original op amp Big Muff, does anyone know? On the PB2015 it was 1uf. On the PB2019 it's 10nf.  I've searched the net and have seen all sorts of values for this component; the most common being 150nf. Does anyone know what the original value was?
Thanks in advance...
Daniel

Hi again,
My post was a little harsh. My apologies for that.
Since your LED array takes 40 volts, you could also probably use the standard version of the LM317 as it goes up to 37 volts output which may be enough brightness for your needs.
Yeah, EG has been around for a long time but I've forgotten about them. It was nice looking through their website again. Lots of stuff!

Hey, next time provide a link to what you need help with so those here know what all the specs are.
From what you've described, make a simple voltage regulator with one of these. You can even use your recently bought transformer to power it. You will need to isolate and heatsink the regulator. Good luck.

https://www.jameco.com/z/LM317HVT-Texas-Instruments-Standard-Regulator-1-2-Volt-To-57-Volt-1-5-Amp-3-Pin-3-Tab-TO-220-Rail_192276.html?%20CID=GOOG&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrPO8zajS6QIVD9bACh3PBgzKEAQYASABEgLFu_D_BwE

Those are the same vactrols that you provided the link for, that I used in my build. Maybe you'll have better luck with them.

Hi,
I've built this project along with a VFE mini mu, which, I think, is the same basic type of effect. The Mini Mu works excellent and does what it should. The NF sound, on the other hand, is glitchy and the filter doesn't engage smoothly. I think the NF circuit is fine but the vactrols I used (Xvive VTL5C3) I don't think are a good match. Maybe the originals would be better in the NF circuit. Either way, I haven't dedicated any time to troubleshooting it and trying different vactrols. Probably what I would do is trace the circuit that drives the vactrols of the Mini Mu, and modify the NF like the MM is around the vactrol portion of the circuit. The MM uses NSL-32, IIRC.

Hi,
Voltages look good. Are you sure the FETs are in the proper way? It's like every FET has a different pinout.
On mine, it only phases when the internal trimmer (bias) is at one extreme end, I think CCW, IIRC. This setting has a lot to do with the cutoff voltages of the particular FETs used. I would have liked it better if this setting was more in the middle so it can be "dialed in".
I can't remember what the best cutoff voltage is for the FET set but if it's too low (< 1volt), the pedal won't work very well. I think ideal cutoff voltage is over 1.5 volts but under 3 volts. Considering the bias rail is 4.7 volts, that puts the cutoff of the FETs right around the middle of the bias rail.
Hope this helps

I got it at Small Bear, when they opened up a few weeks ago. They'll probably be opening up again, at least temporarily, relatively soon. Probably in the next few weeks as soon as they have caught up on shipping all their outstanding orders. There website is up, but only for browsing their stock. I think they only have a minimal crew working there.

Ok, got it. My mistake was assuming it went "Crunch, OD, Dist, Forbidden" on the Dragonbeard.
Oops!

But LM308 has that special mojo! And eBay has real ones for $3 each. I know one of the original Expandora versions substituted a TL072 for the two 308s and nobody likes that version. Lost of complaints about it being very noisy compared to the others.
Just my opinion...

Hi everyone,
Maybe this has been brought up before but my memory is shot.
Anyway, I have found this to be the best solder remover, not counting a professional desoldering station. And it's only $20 at DigiKey.

The front side. Making those 4 LED holes relatively even was super hard. I'll use a compass next time.

I do have a question on this project... Shouldn't R7 (crunch) be 370 ohm, R8 (overdrive) be 560 ohm, and R9 (distortion) be 1K1 ohm? I always thought that the larger the resistance around an op amp the higher it sets the gain, or am I misguided on this?

And, yes, I just realized that I have the 4 settings on mine the opposite of what they should be. Doh!

Finished this one also, I still need to test it out...
I managed to put the 4 LEDs at the same spacing as the rotary switch positions. I did have to turn the middle pot around 180 degrees so the 4 LEDs could fit. The 9mm pot was because when I ordered them I was stuck on stupid and didn't order the correct size to fit on the PCB.
I originally had the super mojo 308 cans installed but thought the tab on the cans designated pin 1... Wrong! I had to cut them out and then order some pedestrian dip-8 versions to use. I bet it'll sound as good though! Lol!