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Search for "PCB test points", and you should find some things like these that may suit your purpose:

Thanks very much!

I'm building a KoT project from a PCB.  The project has trim pots and DIP switches that I think could be useful to have as external controls.  It seems that it would be really useful, though, to be able to populate the board and evaluate these controls before deciding. 

This got me wondering: are there jumper wires suitable for making temporary connection to PCBs, so I could insert jumper wires and connect the controls before soldering anything in place?

Maybe a totally dumb question given the variability in PCB hole characteristics, but figured I'd ask to see if anyone has done this sort of thing already.

Thanks!

The IC on the layout looks 'mirrored' - like the view is from the bottom rather the top of the IC. I think the connections look right based on the location of Pin 1.

Congrats!  Maybe it could have been a bad ground connection at your input jack.  It looks like you sanded the paint off, but maybe it wasn't making good contact.  When you disassembled/reassembled you might have fixed the problem.

Thanks for the help Bio!

I figured I'd give an update on this....
After getting nothing out of the pedal, I put this build aside back in December.  I did a few other builds, including making a test Rig, but this past weekend figured I'd procrastinated long enough. I had disconnected the DC jack and unboxed the PCB. I connected the PCB to my test rig (built from the JMK PCB).  I got sound, but it was really lousy. My test rig is generating a lot of noise, which is another issue.  Figuring I couldn't quite trust the test rig, I threw it back in the box.  And it fired up straight away.

So maybe it really was a bad connection at the jack, even though I had touched up the joints before and it all looked good.

Awesome - really beautiful!

Looks awesome - really professional looking!

Awesome graphic. Love how it fits your Marvel/Guardians theme.

I got it boxed up.  No knobs yet, its time to put in an order with LMS.  This new board layout is really nice for short and clean wiring.  The enclosure is the grey powdercoated Smallbear and I really like the color.  It's like dark white, if that makes any sense.

Looks great!  I really like the gray Smallbear enclosure also. It really is a very light gray, almost off-white, and is a very versatile color.

Recent events have inspired me to change my avatar...
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Nice build, as always.  How do you like those helping hands?  (I need a better set, and am trying to decide between this style and the Quad Hands)

Thanks, I like them a lot. got a 6 pack cheap on amazon. I made mine removable. I use them to also hold my diy LED light and exaust fan. my whole solder station is diy. you cant go wrong with these, so many uses.

Thanks - didn't mean to hijack your build report thread - again, great stuff!

Nice build, as always.  How do you like those helping hands?  (I need a better set, and am trying to decide between this style and the Quad Hands)

I think the idea for the graphic is awesome!

Those look great.  The enclosure and graphics are outstanding.
I just started a KoT build using Bugg's PCB and am doing the same thing with external mounting of the switches and pots.

How did you wire it up? Unless you wired it so that it is bypassed when the effect is, the rate LED is a part of the LFO circuit and will display the rate as long as the circuit is powered.

You should be good to go.

Thanks for the quick reply.  I figured out my mistake.  I had the cathode connected to the wrong ground point on the 3PDT switch.  I built the project using Madbean's bypass board.  But the build docs show wiring to the 'bare' 3PDT footswitch, and I made the bad assumption that the board would have the same pin configuration.  I thought I had checked the connections at all the lugs to see what worked, but I obviously didn't. 

When I connected to the same lug as the "On" LED cathode connects to (the upper left lug) it works correctly.